Travis

Engines need 4 things to start, 1. Fuel 2. Air 3. compression 4. Spark (at the correct time). i would start by removing the air filter, and spray starting fluid or carburetor cleaner straight into the air intake, then try to start it, if it fires up, then dies, you have a fuel issue. It could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter also.

A little warm here sunday, but the low's and highs, alot better than 98 degrees with 90% humidity.... almost time to start hauling firewood with the mule again!

i haven't had much time to mess with it, it's on the back burner for now. But thanks for the info and about using the kevlar rope 👍

Welcome to the forum Bricklayer!

I would be tempted to weld steel plate under there if possible, they're stuck there in a vulnerable spot for a tree stump. as long as it wouldn't inhibit proper suspension travel.

it appears motorcycle doctor has them in stock in Missouri USA, would it take that long to get to vancouver? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crankcase-Position-Sensor-Crank-Trigger-UTV-800-HiSun-Massimo-BENNCHE-UTV800-MSU-/351251653615

it's possible they replaced it, and splicing was required to connect it, though you'd think there would be a connection to the harness.... I don't know for sure, but i know it can be done on mower safety switches, is to connect the two wires going to the switch directly, and see if the problem goes away.

looks like a cool project, keep us posted

Welcome to the UTV Board! since its new I would get in touch with your dealer.\ also, i would put it in Neutral, and rev the engine, if the rattle doesnt happen, then its most likely and issue with the drive system.

sometimes it can take time for the rings to properly seat... I remember when i rebuilt my mule, it would blow a small amount of smoke on start up, but went away within a few hours and doesn't use a drop now. Did you have to Hone the cylinder, or have a machine shop bore it out? Could also be valve seals leaking.

The one thing you can count on, it's not IF they break down, it's WHEN. My main concern when purchasing anything mechanical is "Are parts readily available and can i get a service manual/ or support from the company. Personally, i would go with the honda, because i know the name and other quality machines they make.

From what i've been reading on other forums about the Pro FXT, they're well worth the wait.

Got it figured out, she has an arena drag with electric cylinder on it that she pulls behind it, the controller box on the Kubota for it was burnt up and shorting to ground. on a side note, I will now NEVER buy a kubota UTV.... Customer service at the Dealer and Kubotausa.com is horrible. I'll take my mule over them any day.

looking back at that picture again, it looks like someone put 3 allen head bolts in it. then above you can see a regular Hex head, weird. you might check to be sure they're tight.

Welcome to the UTV Board! Where's the oil leaking from? Maybe a post picture. we'll be glad to try and help you out.

since they didn't use a gasket most likely they used a RTV sealant (liquid gasket) The only solution i can think of is to take it apart, clean both gasket surfaces with brake clean and Rubbing alcohol works good at removing that stuff. and a razor blade is good for scraping paper or RTV gasket off. I prefer to use Permatex Ultra black sealer. good up to 500 degrees F, https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-4/ And for any surface that comes in contact with Gear oil i use https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us

Me and my dad working on a neighbors RTV900, battery tested bad by autozone, replaced. next day the new battery was dead. So something has to be draining it.. We noticed when we set the multimeter to continuity (buzzer) and with the battery removed, if we touch one lead to the + wire, and the other lead of the tester to ground/bolt on frame and i turned the key switch to battery ON position we got continuity from the positive wire to the frame... bad key switch?

I did some reading on Warns website and they said that a 3000 pound winch draws around 198 Amps AT 3,000 pounds. I highly doubt i'll be pulling that much, i guess the accessory wires should be able to handle enough load amperage wise? According to the wiring diagram there is a 20 Amp fuse protecting the accessory wiring. I don't know if i'm overthinking or what. Electricity isn't exactly my strong point. EDIT After Youtube-ing some videos, i guess the best bet is do a set up similar to this straight from the battery, https://www.amazon.com/Winch-Upgrade-Contactor-Switch-Wires/dp/B076F9XTGY/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=UTV+winch+wire+kit&qid=1599529196&sr=8-13 The only task the battery has now is starting the mule. and other than that it's being charged by the stator. Probably just ought to be sure the mule is idling while i use the winch.

Might try here, https://www.performance670.com If not you ought to try and get in touch with the YouTuber RedBeardsGarage, Or, Cars and Camera's .They're the brain to pick on all the predator engines.

It's always darkest before dawn. So if you're going to do donuts in your neighbor's yard, that's the time to do it

here is the size wire of the electrical accessory hook up,

Warn 3,000 lbs, 3.0 ci didn't see any other numbers on it.

I can't recall right off the top of my head, I'll have to go look at it.

Glad to hear it! Good luck!

I can't remember off the top of my head, I'll look through my manual.