Travis

There's been so many people having various Quality control problems with these Coleman/HiSun machines it's not even funny... I hope they get everything right for you.

gas pouring out the vent hose,,,, sounds like the float/ float needle isn't metering the fuel flow to the carburetor... i read that most Coleman's have a 2 year warranty, sounds to me like you need to save some headache, file a warranty claim, for the running issues, and the crap QC. Or contact Coleman (which i think is manufactured by HiSun motors) and ask them if they've ever heard of the Lemon Law.

Could be water in the fuel, either empty some gas from the unit into a clear container, or the can you fill them up with, and let it sit for about 10 minutes, see if there is any sepration as the water and ethanol will form a line between the gasoline.

http://joyner-usa.com/shop-online/

Yes, they wanted me to supply the brushes etc, whatever comes in the rebuild kit, i guess since it's a ATV they may not have the correct parts.... there really aren't a lot of shops around me that work on atv's except for actual dealerships, no independent "mom and pop" type places, but i'm pretty good with mechanical stuff. but yes, i think i will replace just the solenoid with the OEM part. Thanks for the suggestion on talking to a shop about rebuilding the starter, that helped me make my mind up. sometimes i just need a good kick in the hind end to get in gear, lol.

I think i may have a solution, today i did some testing and just ran power straight to the starter motor by passing the solenoid, just off and on for about 3 seconds each time and did it about 12 times or more, of course the solenoid didn't kick the gear out since i unhooked power from it, but the starter motor spun up strong everytime with no hesitation, so that leads me to believe the motor is good, but there's something funky with the solenoid... i found a Genuine Kawasaki (Denso) starter solenoid for it on Ebay for 59.99. I could just try replacing the solenoid with an OEM part.. alot cheaper than a new starter... BTW i did get in contact with a local auto shop who does work like that and they told me they wanted me to provide the "rebuild kit" brushes and what ever else comes with it, i've seen rebuild kits for the Kawasaki starters, but not sure if they'd work on one from CHYNA.

Did this problem start after you installed the CPS? And does the motor have fuel injectors, or just a carburetor?

Maybe, the Original Denso number is Denso 128000-9980. and it seems like every other starter comes from Wee Fewl Yu.

you're sick of chinese Crap but really can't afford the good OEM part? Starter on the mule, i finally replaced the old D&B electrical starter (on august 28th) on it that was at least 5 years old with probably a million starts on it and apparently D&B no longer makes it/sells it, so i bought a $53 starter from CHYNA on amazon.. on august 19th, well here it is barely 1.5 months later, it clicks several times before it will spin over, all connections were good and i tested the key switch, and trigger wire voltage as well as the starter relay according to the service manual and they all check out. usually a tap with a hammer or if i turn the key back and forth fast several times it will kick in and start. would it be worth my time to remove the starter and lube it?? I've got the Denso and Kawasaki part numbers but boy... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ even a Reman denso is $230. does anyone know of a decent aftermarket starter maker that might have one? i've 12.5 volts at the big cable, and i get the same at the trigger wire as the manual states, but when its in F or R i get no voltage at the trigger, so i know the Neutral safety is working properly. and if anyone can find one the DB starter was 190-542 18450

By the way, Welcome to the UTV board!

Here ya go, 30C3750, i cross reff'd the Dayco part number on Gates' website. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=gates+https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGates-30C3750-G-Force-C-12-Belt%2Fdp%2FB00CFBSOAU&t=newext&atb=v236-1&ia=web

I had trouble with a Dayco CVT belt on my mule (and other dayco belts in general), switched to Gates. works flawless now.

Comment of the year!!!

That's a good idea, i'll have to store that idea for future use for hard to get to oil fills.

Very good article. I would definitely say my mule looks crude compared to the new ones coming out.

you might contact massimo and see if there is a way to test the switch with a multi meter.

almost sounds like a faulty ignition switch/key switch to me. i would trace and inspect all wires that lead from the key switch where possible.

Probably no cheap way. at 25mph you're probably at the max of 3600 to 3800 RPM of the engine. I also read across several different forums and their seems to be no way around it. Unless you know a racing engine and transmission mechanic.

need to be sure the oil is okay to use with Wet clutches. Valvoline 4 stroke atv/utv oil is for use with wet clutches.

The admin "Pins" the thread to the top of the forum thread list, since the topic has a lot of valuable info someone may need, that way it doesnt get hidden by other posts.

Valvoline Moto, ATV oil is good stuff.

Oh come on, this is how you tighten an oil drain plug! As for the O-ring agree with Kenfain, My mule doesn't have a crush washer or o-ring, just a steel (stainless probably) washer, it never leaks a drop.

http://fumotousa.com/ there are also quite a few suction pumps online for changing oil, with a long hose you can stick through the dipstick hole if possible. they're either hand pump or battery.

Take a look here, they may have something that will fit your needs. As well as roof racks. I did fine a Arctic Cat part number for the spare tire rack, Arctic Cat 1436-814. Arctic Cat Wildcat Hunting | Storage: SideBySideStuff.com

I'm not aware of anyone here "selling" UTV insurance.