Travis

Welcome to the UTVBoard! I would definitely recommend a windshield made of Lexan, it's stronger than plexiglass and very clear, However it scratches easy so if a company selling offers a hard coating, get it. Even wiping off dust with a paper towel can create mini scratches, so the recommended cleaning method is wash it off with water and dry with a microfiber towel. Lexan is also impact resisant and it will bend before it breaks. Here are some Honda windshields. https://offroadarmor.com/product-category/sxs-utv/honda/pioneer/windshields-pioneer-honda/ We bought a windshield from them for my Grandad's MuleSX, with the Areo vents in it, he said he can feel the air move through them... but since the Mule is open cab for the most part, wind is easily blown around... it may be different for the honda. here's the Areo vent for the Honda 700 https://offroadarmor.com/product/honda-pioneer-700-2-seater-aero-vent-windshield/

If you have the old starter still, I would compare and count the teeth on the starter gear old VS new starter.

Appears to be Chinese http://www.klung-motor.com/Buggy-parts-one.asp?news_id=701 From what i've seen joyners are similar built to jeeps and other cars... ,might can take one to a auto parts shop and match them up.

Might try calling Kawasaki Cust. Service, 866-802-9381 tthey might can help you sort it out

Some of their commercial mower engines designate the shaft orientation at the end of the of the model series "FC400V" vertical And Kawasaki seems to use D to designate a Horizontal shaft engine.

They're still using the FJ400 in the mule SX, though it may have a different spec number (FJ400-xxxxx) due to it being EFI... the first characters in Kawasaki model numbers gives the CC of the engine (FE290 = 290cc, FJ400= 400 or 401 cc) and then the second set are the spec numbers which describe the variation of that model.. I've got some friends over on a small engine forum that deal with Kawasaki engine's I'll ask them, they might know exactly. Are you looking for parts or just curious about the Engine?

The strap wrench ought to work, but if not, I usually get a long flathead screwdriver and punch it through the filter towards the end (remember it screws onto a stud) and use it like a T handle to loosen. Righty Tighty, lefty loosey

I know you will, but i can't stand not to stress it.. clean that head as though your life depended on it after lapping... That liquid sandpaper won't be good for it at 3,000 RPM...

well, you'll definitley need a new rocker arm on that right side.. Is the spark plug out when you're turning it by hand and it stops? If not, take it out and spin it by hand, if it's easier, then it could be a problem with that valve not opening causing excess compression.... if the spark plug is out, and it's still hitting... I would look for a brok valve, or valve seat popped out holding the valve down into the cylinder... May be easier if you remove the head and inspect and look at everything.

http://joyner-usa.com/t2t4/ hope this helps.

Some of us have had our Side by Sides for a long time and some of us for only a few years or months.... They say hindsight is 20/20 and in that case if you could go back and purchase a different UTV brand that would be better, would you? after you've answered, comment below on why you may or may not choose differently

what about using a marine deep cycle battery for the lights and accessories.... this has a good equation at the end for amps discharge per hours... https://www.powerstridebattery.com/blog/how-are-deep-cycle-batteries-rated-explained-for-dummies

you're very welcome. Hope it helps you out.

That might could work.....

i guess go ahead and try it with the can... just be sure not to get on anything hot i.e. the muffler/exhaust pipe.....

You probably could, i just use the trigger spray to eliminate the risk of a fire via the propellant.

Okay, I finally found it on the Kawasaki website, the stock output for the alternator is 15 amps..... I know most lawnmowers that use a electric PTO for the blades put out 20 amps. Kawasaki still sells the big 50 amp alternator kit for this 4010.. but it's anywhere from $300-500 bucks.

Get WD-40 or similar... something that the engine can burn as fuel.... gasoline not recommended though. In a TRIGGER spray bottle, no aresol can. and spray the WD-40 around where the carb mounts and intake gaskets. if there is any change in engine speed or it blows smoke, you have a gasket leaking... Be sure to spray the area liberally.

That could cause an issue... usually air leaks will cause the engine to surge though but i would replace the carb gaskets as a starting point.

I was able to get a part number for the axles and what other machines they fit. Land Pride Part #826-456C REAR AXLE SHFT ST, 24T INT.SPL - Price: Call For Price This part appears in the following assemblies - click on any assembly to view and order the part: Manufacturer: Land Pride Model: Treker 4420ST Assembly: Transaxle Rear and Axle Shafts Manufacturer: Land Pride Model: Treker 4220ST Assembly: Transaxle Rear and Axle Shafts Manufacturer: Land Pride Model: Treker 4410ST Assembly: Transaxle Rear and Axle Shafts Manufacturer: Land Pride Model: Treker 4210ST Assembly: Transaxle Rear and Axle Shafts

I saw a few on Ebay for the 4420 i think was the number, said it had 18 splines... might contact the seller and see if they will fit.

Don't see why it wouldn't work... But (there's always a but). I'm not sure if having to charge two batteries and run lights....might be over tasking the alternator a bit...I don't know.. I tried to find what amperage the 4010 Alt is but no luck. I think stock they are usually between 9 and 20 Amp

sounds more like it's Carburetor cleaning time...

Does this have a safety switch so it won't start in Gear? My mule acted the same way one time, turned out to be the neutral safety switch.