Travis

Welcome to the Board Russ!

I'd say so!!!!!

Hi sir, welcome. I found the part number for the alternator and it plugged it in at Kawasaki, the 4010 won't cross over with 3010 I did find this one on EBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/kawasaki-oem-part-21001-1129/264725199503epid=1223129455hash=item3da2d9fa8fcolongcolon7agaaosw6xxevejkredirect=mobile

Cub Cadet specifies the top speed as 45 MPH for this model. wonder if the exhaust noise and low speed are linked somehow

From what I found, looks like Massimo only wants to sell the manual for 75 bucks or so... This is a item number, SM_BK400

Might have a look at these, https://www.sidebysidestuff.com/spike-led-headlight-replacement-bulb-kit-polaris-ranger.html They've got some good reviews on them

Best thing to do would be buy a tachometer and see at what RPM it engages it. Not a permanent one , unless you want it to be. they make some you just wrap the wire around the spark plug or plug wire.

Only thing I could find was to do it every 800 hours.... No specifications. On most small motors If I can't find the spec, I set them at .006" and have never had a problem . Could also contact CubCadet/HiSun

Inside the clutch is a big spring and weights. No adjustments I am aware of ,It could be a number of issues inside it, either the Primary or or driven clutch could be the cause. If I remember right Comet made the clutches but they're out of business. I think On most mules they are made to engage at 2000 rpm... If my thinker serves me right.

Very odd. Any authorized Massimo dealer should've known what the problem is.

It's not flashing a code is it? Just a solid light?

hope this makes it easier for folks to find parts... wasn't PT sold UTV parts. https://www.partstree.com/categories/utility-vehicles/cub-cadet/

oh ,we've got a 20 ton press, but you might could get a drift in their to knock them out... didnt think of that! Can't press them out due to the ridges they bottom out on. once the first one was out of the way the 2nd was easy peasy.

Looks good roger! Good pattern on the crosshatch! Be sure to clean block out well with parts cleaner and soapy warm water, get all of that honing grit out of there!

i used PIVOT WORKS part number, PWFWK-K36-000 Okay, first step..... Remove the wheel.... 4 lug nuts. then jack the front end up and support it with jackstands and chock the rear wheels. remove the axle nut mud cover. get a 1 1/6" socket to remove the axle nut... Don't forget to remove the cotter pin! you can use a breaker bar or impact to remove it. there is a spacer behind the axle nut, remove it also. now pull the drum off. sometimes it can be stuck on so spray some penetrating fluid between it and the backing plate, and tap it with a hammer while spinning it . you may have to use a 3 leg puller. Now that the drum/hub assembly is off, this is what you should see. the drum houses the bearings. there are 2 bearings, 1 spacer and 1 seal. the seal goes on the back of the drum, facing the brakes. the spacer goes in between the 2 bearings. Now, my manual and also my common sense told me to PRESS the bearings out. You CAN NOT press them OUT. there are 2 ridges that control the depth at which they are installed and you CAN NOT press them out.. you must use a slide hammer puller. and you have to do it 1 bearing at at a time. Don't worry, the spacer is supposed to move freely in the drum. I used the 3rd biggest puller attachment in the set. now that you have the old ones out clean the bore out with parts cleaner and a clean rag, and do the same to the spindle shaft on the mule., time to install the new ones!!! i recommend putting them in the freezer for about 30 minutes or more for ease of installation. they go in easier when cold. i used a flat piece of wood to drive them in straight and then a 13/16" socket to drive them into the ridge, they are about 3/8" below the surface. remember to do one bearing, install the spacer, then the other bearing, then the seal. the oil seal goes on the back side of the drum that goes against the backing plate on the mule. I recommend lubricating the seal lips and outer edge when installing into the drum assembly. now that the bearings are in time to Reinstall the drum! just slide it back over the spindle shaft until fully seated... install the axle nut spacer, axle nut and cotter pin. before you install the cotter pin, torque the axle nut to 110 ft lbs. reinstall the dust cap, tire, and lug nuts. lug nuts are torqued to 25 ft lbs, remove jackstands, let jack down, un chock the rear wheel. YOU ARE READY TO GO!

The job is done!

Good luck Roger!

Well, UPS made me eat my words... Guess I'll finish school and start on that!

just got an update from amazon, Wheel bearings are supposed to be here this THURSDAY now! woo hoo!

i hear you never have to change the spark plugs on these new diesels!

My manual gives 1.2MM (47 thousandths) as the maximum service limit, for top ring and second ring, there is also the thickness of the ring to consider, Top and 2nd rings: 1.44 MM (57 thousandths), says to measure in several different places and if the measured value is smaller than the listed number to replace the rings. i know its a pain in the rear to do, but i would remove the engine and have a machine shop mic the cylinder to check for wear, because it is common for the cylinder to wear more than the rings. But that's totally up to you to decide as what you want to do. I can't argue with buying a new ring set and honing it.

I found 2 grease zerks I never knew it had,... They are On the front end, back side of where the tie rod comes from the steering, and it lubes the shaft that pivots the spindle and wheel to turn it.... And they are in the hardest place to see., Never mentioned in the owners or Service manual. wheel bearings are supposed to be delivered this Saturday.

I'm really surprised HiSun doesn't make the manual available, as HiSun makes their own engines... I even looked on eBay for a paper copy, nothing. The next best thing to do is contact Cub Cadet and see what they can do for you..