Travis

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Hisun-750utv-5544837.html If I remember correctly HiSun made the utv for Cub cadet, this covers everything, including periodic maintenance and repairs. I hope this helps.

I searched the internet for quite awhile and couldn't Find anything pertaining to the issue,I would go to HiSun's website And contact them. Is it manual engagement Or electric switch?

I think the cat is trying to find the Tail on the "Mule".

I was able to find the pivot works kit on Amazon for 32.99....I'll take it over Kawasaki's $25 per bearing. Expect a detailed write up on it soon! And I found something on the Mule I've never seen before.....

Plywood would be best... I've seen some people use those heavy moving blankets too.

Motorcycle Dr. Sells HiSun parts http://www.motorcycledoctor.com/utv.htm

Here ya go Buddy! https://www.utvboard.com/forum/61-odes-utv-sxs-forum/

I looked on the pivots works kit some more, and the kit is 42.00 for BOTH sides. so all 4 needed bearings and 2 seals....may go with that. Lifetime guarantee.

What a beauty! It will serve you well for many years to come.

I think the front wheel bearings need replaced. Lately i've noticed some noise from the front end while driving.. jacked it up and both sides have considerable play. The passenger side more so. Kawasaki 92045-1170 replaces the bearing. its 2 per hub. which is 4. it's 25 bucks PER BEARING. which is $100 and some change for both sides. Kawasaki lists that the bearing used is a 60/22 2RS ball bearing. i can find them anywhere from $5 to $10, BUT i question the quality, no country of origin is disclosed. Pivotworks.com has a front set but its $42 for each side. 42+42= 84, so thats better than 100..... any one ever bought anything from pivot works? I checked the local auto parts stores for the bearing but nada. https://houseofkawasaki.dealerspikeparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b24b1f8700223e478dc0a/front-hubs-brakes http://www.pivotworks.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=5819

That probably was a shadow I was seeing in the bore. I know what you mean with the bolts...sometimes people go crazy with those impact guns! If you need any specifications give me a holler and I can get 'em.

Welcome!!!!

Yeah the bore looks pretty good. The only thing i see is how dirty and slightly discolored.... When I took mine apart at 1300 hours, it was still shiny and clean. other than that I see no vertical score lines... If course a ring could be stuck if it is the rings causing the problem. The leakdown test will tell all.

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Is the head still off the motor? you wouldn't mind posting a picture of the cylinder bore, would you?

Work smarter not harder!!

Be sure you're turning it the correct way, counter clockwise to loosen it. They are pretty tight from the factory! One way I do is with my ratchet or wrench, and get A hammer and hit the end the end of The tool with it,that usually gets it done.

I believe this is The correct list http://joyner-usa.com/c2c4/

I would start with the piston. Fill the cylinder with diesel fuel and let it sit for about 5 days. Usually what I do is use a wooden dowel and small hammer and tap the piston lightly repeatedly. If that doesn't free it up i'd tear it down and see what needs replaced in the bottom end.

Wow that's a good idea! I'll have to try that!

Yes, the wear more On the bottom sides, and top. When I rebuilt mine, the machinist had to use a I think what he called a rigid hone to bring it back round. This is the spring compressor I used, https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Spring-Compressor-Automotive-Repair/dp/B01CQGZHY4 One thing I suggest doing, but you don't have too, while the head is off and the valves are out, I would get some lapping compound and a lapper tool and lap the valves, it grinds the valve and seat together and provides a new,clean smooth sealing surface. You don't have to do it, but it's what I do when I'm that far into something. It definitely is odd that it happened over night. Some engines have minds of their own!

The decompresser on the camshaft bumps the exhaust valve when the starter is rotating the engine, once it fires off, due to centrifugal force, the bump on the decompresser that opens the valve slings away from the cam lobe and stays out of the way. it's possible that it might be a issue, but not likely. a leak down tester pumps air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. Piston at TDC, with valves closed, you cut off the air, and remove either the exhaust or intake manifold first, and listen for air hissing out , if air is hissing from the carb side, intake valve or valve seat is toast. Sam for the exhaust. If no air is heard in any of these spots, remove the dipstick cap, if you hear air hissing in the crank case, the rings are shot. This video describes it well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l95j1pr7mg4

Welll, depends on what is seized, if the rings are toast, most likely that means the connecting rod and crank bearings weren't getting oiled either. it's not a 2 stroke is it?

https://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-62595.html if you don't have one,A good leak down tester is about $60 +, but if you're not a mechanic, and using this every day, it ought to work just fine.

Hmm. what I would do, is reinstall the head and do a leak down test. That will tell you were compression is escaping.