Travis

Woops, posted twice

Plunge up by valve and Plunge up of HLA are not for yours. It's a FE290. Might also check they flywheel key..

Hmmm. so I assume by checking the valve clearance that you made sure the valves operated freely. Is your spark plug tight? I have a manual for both machine and Engine, I'll look in the troubleshooting sections and see what I find.

Yep I can agree . Rocky Mountain ATV beats just about everyone on pricing. Babbitts and RMATV are go to's. Thanks for posting your positive experience!

180 hours and the cam is wore out?????? Dang! They should give you the parts! Cams should do at least 1300 hours in a single cylinder small engine. If it's a chinese engine, they probably made them out of pot metal. I would look for a heavy duty diesel engine oil, like Rotella or Delo. They have what these smaller engines need, especially cams.

Never heard of it. I'll look it up. Apparently in businesses since 05, from California. Looking at their prices, if it were me I would go with the Big 4 of UTVs. Polaris, Kawasaki, Textron/arctic cat or Can Am. Because, Parts. None of the above companies are going anywhere any time soon, Parts are still easily sourced for models older than 15 years, they have good warranties, and are common, so getting help with possible repairs or modifications could be made easier.

I don't think this model uses points,I looked in the parts diagram, didn't see points, but it does have a coil and a trigger. is this dual or single carbs?

LMBO!

It has a Max speed of 56 MPH..

There is an air passage that runs through the carb and it terminates through that hose, most newer small engine carbs don't have them thanks to the EPA. Not really sure why it's there either.

i think it's an Polaris RZR 800 EFI. It looks like they started making them in 2012.

I notice there is a number on the front fender, I might can get the picture on my photo editor and clear up that number.

Sounds like it needs a good Carburetor cleaning.

Yep, that's definitely the carb float sticking...or some trash for stuck on the needle and held it open... Be sure to check your oil for gas smell, just in case it flooded into the cylinder.

Looks like a Polaris Bigfoot edition..... But joking aside, it's definitely Polaris RZR. Any other pictures?

I've been into my brakes a few times... The wheel cylinders are, from my dealer, $130 each. Check in the parts thread in this Kawasaki forum for other prices. there are some chinese ones on amazon for about $50 I think. once you get into the drum you can determine if the shoes need replaced. They might just need adjusted. Although brake fluid is kind of acidic and might eat away at the shoe material. it's fairly simple. The rear ones have the E brake cable, so that's 1 extra thing to look after. I would recommend buying a shop manual. I have one, I can post the page instructions here if you want me too.

It probably is possible to get a few extra MPH. Of course, the engine may already be capable of doing 50+, you just need to take that rotational power and put it to the ground. Via transmission and centrifugal clutches.. But going over a limited speed is tough on a CVT system drive belt since it heats up fairly quickly when running at a sustained speed. And can cause cracking and overall premature wear. I can also say for certain any modifications you do will most likely void the warranty.

Nah, I bet that Mule can go farther than a Poolaris

http://joyner-usa.com/t2t4/ Only thing I could find... Still didn't see a driveshaft listed. Might could have a local Auto parts store match up some U joints, but as for the shaft, im in the dark on that.

Which model Joyner do you have?

Congrats!

That's Awesome ,Richard!

Usually the governor shouldn't make it sputter as the effect of it doing its job, it will just limit the RPMs.I I would contact massimo with the flashing light to decode it. It could be spark cutting out due to a faulty plug.

There are, but a vast majority come from China. if there is a problem with the current shocks, broke or just flat out wore out, I 'd replace them with O EM parts. If you do get an aftermarket shock, if they're springier than the original your bed load capacity could be reduced

Perhaps you could tell us what you did to fix it and help any other future people with the same problem.