Southern Utah Jamboree - The next Get Together
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By Cougsfan
I just replaced the OEM Discovery batteries in my 2017 E1 with Trojan T-105's. The dealer reprogrammed the charger for these batteries. I use the E1 almost constantly around my farm, but seldom put more than a a few miles a day on the rig. As I don't need long range, it was recommended I stay with lead acid batteries as the cost became a significant factor. My question is it is better for the batteries to charge my E1 every night or to run it a week or so and take the charge down a ways before recharging.
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By Joel Goldsney
Wasn't sure exactly how to title this thread as I have a few issues with my newly acquired hisun UTV. Hopefully going to consolidate all the issues in one thread.
I purchased from a guy who had rebuilt the engine replaced the fuel pump as well as re-done the front end. He had the unit running and driving when it quit and would not start. He got frustrated and decided no more projects and sold it to me. Unit is in excellent condition physically.....hardly any scratches on the plastics. All in all its a good unit with the following issues/symptoms
1) Mis fire and stalling out when revved
Well as you can see by the title of the first issue I managed to get the unit running. Seems that the battery was very weak. I charged the unit and it fired up fine. The engine seems to stutter and misfire when revved and once the unit warms up it stalls out. I think it's a fuel issue as if I give it a shot of ether it starts back up.
Additional Note: Revving engine in Neutral seems to cause indication to flicker and occasionally the reverse light comes on which seems to kick in the reverse rev limiter. Have also hade this happen when driving around. Reverse Light flickers and revs get cut.
2) Fuel line configuration.
When he replaced the fuel pump he got creative with the tubing and removed the "small fuel tank"
(See pictures)
Not sure what the purpose of this tank is but would love some pictures of a stock set up so I can put everything back together correct.
3) Issues engaging in gear
The unit seems to have issues going in to gear...I will move the shifter in place but the gear won't engage and the lights don't indicate correct. It takes a few tries to engage and sometimes it grinds a bit
4) Rack and pinion slipping
This problem is probably a simple replacement fix...when turning to the right with the vehicle not moving the steering just slipps and turns without turning the tire. I believe I just need to replace the rack and pinion but if there is something else please let me know.
Any insight or tips on resolving any of these issues would be much appreciated.
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By Samuel Girten
So I have a msu400 efi. Ran fine, pulled it into the shop to do my typical routine maintenance, cleaned air filter, change oil, etc.
So now it won't run right. Starts and idles, stumbles on acceleration. If I baby it I can get it moving, but dies after a few hundred feet and then is hard to start. Will start back and idle just fine as long as you don't rev it up.
So what I've done so far.
Verified fuel pressure at injector, never losing it. (54psi)
replaced fuel injector. Verified spark right after dying (sparking like hell)
checked valves. ( Proper clearance) replaced map sensor, idle control sensor, and tps. (No change)
disconnected negative battery cable for 20mins (no change)
checked exhaust, (free and clear)
Checked air filter again and intake tube (all good)
After it dies or if I just let it sit before starting it, it throws code 113, which I've seen is IAT voltage too high or open circuit. I have a 4 wire sensor and am not sure the wiring back to the ecm nor can find a good diagram. Not even sure if this is a problem or just a code it would throw if it is just not running.
Any help would be appreciated
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By natmech
I've got 5 UTV's as work vehicles. 8 hours a day, 365 days a year. Swampy, woodsy, lots of broken trees. The stuff that's on there has lots of punctures, slow leaks, etc. I spend way too much time keeping the tires up. So I need recommendations for good tough tires that are very puncture resistant, sidewalls too, and have good traction in lots of muddy conditions all year long. But i can't pay $300/tire.
thanks everyone
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By CDT540
Just bought a used 2015 MSU 500. I am in the process of replacing all the fluids and generally going over everything. I pulled the outer plastic clutch cover off and oil started dripping out. Oil was everywhere, a huge mess. I thought for sure I had a bad seal on the clutch or secondary. So I removed the clutch and secondary CVT so I could get a look at the seals and they both were dry as a bone. The only two dry spots. Now I am stumped. If oil did not get into the by way of the two shaft seals, how on earth could it have gotten in?
Thanks
Chris
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