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Wheel Bearings

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Rattle is probably from the disk brake pads. It is not a problem. There is a clip used to hold pads in place to stop the rattle / clicking. Racers remove them or don't install to get max release from the calipers. Jack up the wheel and spin it! See if you can locate the location of the noise.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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If it is your wheel bearings Silver Bullet has upgrade bearings for $25 each. The link is/ Bearings, other parts, RB-0864 - Silver Bullet Motorsports, Inc - Yuma AZ - Team Joyner USA

Cheers Mike.

I didn't care for Silver Bullet at first. Felt he was only interested in enterprising on this board and not contributing. Some others felt the same way. Then I met him at the Joyner auction and found he is not your smooth talking salesman but instead a real sharp inteligent businessman. He is an older gentleman who started Silver Bullet for his kids to take over. I've taken back my first thoughts of him not contributing. He is contributing in a different way. He has very methodically taken Joyner problems and dug into industry and found good alternative solutions. Being engineeing minded, I watched his stuff and feel he is doing a solid well thought out job. He may not be posting on how to fix this and that like most of the rest of us do but he is providing well thought out answers. Keep up the good work Silver Bullet.

That said, looked at the site showing the wheel bearings being offering. I already converted my Trooper to tapered wheel bearings a long time ago. Far stronger, about 2-1/2 times. I noticed that Silver bullet is offering a tripple ball bearing. The problem isn't the bearings ability to hold up the buggy but it's ability to take the stress of the buggy sliding sideways, the side twisting. Especially when sliding and hitting something. A triple bearing will help hold up the buggy better but not add any strength to the twisting on the bearing that occurs when sliding. In sliding, the center bearing is neutral and all the stress will go to the 2 otter bearings. My thinking is that in order to go to a tripple bearing, the ball size in each bearing may be smaller, but not necessarily. If it is, the side stress resistance could actually go down while the direct verticle down loading could go up. I don't think the stock bearings have any problem holding up the buggy. If a Troopers rear is say 1000 pounds, that is 500 pound per side or 250 pounds per ball bearing. There are 2 ball bearings per side, they are actually combined making a double ball bearing.Now, if I'm sliding and about to tip over, that's 1000 pounds is on one wheel trying to twist is. The pivot point is the center point between the 2 bearings. That center point ins't but about 1-1/2" from the bearing loading point. If your running 30" tires for example, that 1000 pounds of side pressure at the tires tread say 15" from the center pivot point, actully a little more, acts with the leverage of 15" devided by 1-1/2" or 6.66. That answer times 1000 pounds now becomes 6660 pounds of radial load on each of the 2 ball bearings on that one side. Far greater then the normal 250 pound loading. If you hit something while sliding sideways, that goes way up. This is the load the bearing needs to be designed around to reliablely run trouble free. My tapered roller bearings are as large as I could get in, including boring the spindle housing a little. My bearings still fall short a little of what would be perfect but are much closer. A bearings life goes down by the inverse square of the loading. Thus if you double the load the bearings life is 1/4.

Lenny

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Mike I talk to Rick today he don't have the upgrade bearing yet in a couple of days Thanks

Hi plumber

We just recived our bearings in.I cut one side so you guys can see.This is a daul tapered roller bearing.Look how thick the steel housing is.This should solve the bearing issue Troopers have in the rear this 35x65x35 is a 1 piece bearing with daul rollers bearings! The triple bearing is for Vipers

49.95 less 5 % off for members.

Thanks

Rich

post-339-050825700 1295721620_thumb.jpg

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BUT it doesn't take care of the soft cast iron the hub is made out of. Someone needs to come up with a stronger hub. I now believe my bearings were fine but the hub was worn. The axle nut WAS at the correct torque.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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BUT it doesn't take care of the soft cast iron the hub is made out of. Someone needs to come up with a stronger hub. I now believe my bearings were fine but the hub was worn. The axle nut WAS at the correct torque.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I wonder if heat treating them would solve any problems, any one know the secrets about heat treating.

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Not enough. Iron strength is more a matter of carbon content. Better & more material around the bearing location is required. This would also allow for the use of a larger bearing more evenly distributing the stress to the bearing surfaces. Someone needs to find an existing fit from another vehicle or cast another from higher quality material fitted for a larger bearing.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Hi plumber

We just recived our bearings in.I cut one side so you guys can see.This is a daul tapered roller bearing.Look how thick the steel housing is.This should solve the bearing issue Troopers have in the rear!The triple bearing is for Vipers

49.95 less 5 % off for members.

Thanks

Rich

Hi Rick I have bought some from you nice looking bearing

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Wonder what it would cost for some billet steel ones

I don't know if I feel too bad about the steel being soft. I'm not sure it is. They are casted and probably heat treated to begin with. It is malable cast which means you can weld it. It also will bend some before it brakes. I think that the machining of the bore for the bearing is sloppy. Rocmoc, one of your bearings you said was tight in the housing. If that wheel was loose it had to be something else. I strongly sujest that anyone installing new bearings, clean the hub bore and od of the bearing with a good detergent to break down any oils present. Dawn dish soap is known for being about the best grease cutter around. Solvents won't do it. they just dilute it down but a residue still remains. Once clean use the strongest Loctite bolt locker available to secure the bearing in the hub and to keep it tight. A little heat will allow later removel.

Lenny

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I don't know if I feel too bad about the steel being soft. I'm not sure it is. They are casted and probably heat treated to begin with. It is malable cast which means you can weld it. It also will bend some before it brakes. I think that the machining of the bore for the bearing is sloppy. Rocmoc, one of your bearings you said was tight in the housing. If that wheel was loose it had to be something else. I strongly sujest that anyone installing new bearings, clean the hub bore and od of the bearing with a good detergent to break down any oils present. Dawn dish soap is known for being about the best grease cutter around. Solvents won't do it. they just dilute it down but a residue still remains. Once clean use the strongest Loctite bolt locker available to secure the bearing in the hub and to keep it tight. A little heat will allow later removel.

Lenny

The one that was tight was not loose to begin with and not the problem. I did clean and loctite but didn't work. Our 31" tires and the ability they give us to do more difficult 4 wheeling pushes the existing hub beyond the design of the hub, IMHO.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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