Quantcast
Jump to content

TALE OF THE TORTURED TROOPER


Gumball

Recommended Posts

Hiya,

As some of you know my Trooper was wrecked when it was thrown out my toy hauler. It is being rebuilt by a master fabricator, Chad Nichols at Nichols Fabrication. He's replaced much of the hardware in the front end and installed a new rack. He also installed my Koni shocks.

All was going well until he tried to start it this morning. Everything sounded fine but no start. After further inspection we found a FRIED fuse in the fuse box. That is likely the problem.

My question is, has anyone had experience replacing the box, and or, wiring around the box? I sent him the schematic so he can figure out what the fuse controls. I tried sending him the Trooper Owners manual but my ISP bounced it because the file was to big. Finding a website that has the manual has not been successful. If I can't find one I'll make a copy of the one I have and take it to him.

When the project is complete I'll post the results for all to see. Thanks to Lenny and Jarrad for their help.

Gumball

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiya,

As some of you know my Trooper was wrecked when it was thrown out my toy hauler. It is being rebuilt by a master fabricator, Chad Nichols at Nichols Fabrication. He's replaced much of the hardware in the front end and installed a new rack. He also installed my Koni shocks.

All was going well until he tried to start it this morning. Everything sounded fine but no start. After further inspection we found a FRIED fuse in the fuse box. That is likely the problem.

My question is, has anyone had experience replacing the box, and or, wiring around the box? I sent him the schematic so he can figure out what the fuse controls. I tried sending him the Trooper Owners manual but my ISP bounced it because the file was to big. Finding a website that has the manual has not been successful. If I can't find one I'll make a copy of the one I have and take it to him.

When the project is complete I'll post the results for all to see. Thanks to Lenny and Jarrad for their help.

Gumball

I had to replace my box and my relays my box shorted out and burnt up my wires

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you electric weld on anything with electronics you take a chance of shorting out components. This is especially true if the battery is left connected. Can also happen to the dead vehicle when jump starting a battery. Can also happen if there is a HARD dead short to the system.

Hate chasing electrical & electronic problems.

rocmoc n AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiya,

As some of you know my Trooper was wrecked when it was thrown out my toy hauler. It is being rebuilt by a master fabricator, Chad Nichols at Nichols Fabrication. He's replaced much of the hardware in the front end and installed a new rack. He also installed my Koni shocks.

All was going well until he tried to start it this morning. Everything sounded fine but no start. After further inspection we found a FRIED fuse in the fuse box. That is likely the problem.

My question is, has anyone had experience replacing the box, and or, wiring around the box? I sent him the schematic so he can figure out what the fuse controls. I tried sending him the Trooper Owners manual but my ISP bounced it because the file was to big. Finding a website that has the manual has not been successful. If I can't find one I'll make a copy of the one I have and take it to him.

When the project is complete I'll post the results for all to see. Thanks to Lenny and Jarrad for their help.

Gumball

Here is a link to the 2008 T2 Parts manual/ http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/1100trooperT2_parts_manual2008.pdf

This is the 2009 T2-T4 Manual http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/TR1100-T2-T4_manual2009.pdf

I hope this helps, & I bet you can't wait to get out there enjoying it again.

Cheers Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greetings Brostar,

Thank you very much for the information. As it turns out the Trooper is once again running, minus the fried fuse. I'll pick it up tomorrow. Now the fun begins for me. There is considerable cosmetic damage left to fix. I'll probably end up replacing the fuse box to make sure it doesn't happen again.

I'll post a list of the repairs, etc. when I get it back together again. I'm happy I have you all when help is needed. Unlike Humpty Dumpty and all the kings men, you all helped me put it together again.

Gumball

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Back in the saddle again!

The Trooper was inspected yesterday. After making sure everything worked I took it in, the inspector looked at the engine number, the Vin # and that was it. Well, at least everything is legal.

Here’s what been done so far:

Change the front-end Heim joints and ball joints to domestic parts. This meant cutting the old parts out and fabricating new steering arms and related parts.

Replace the left front CV bearing cage

Replace the CV Boots

Fabricate new A arm mounts.

Replace the steering rack to make steering more positive. NOTE: a lot of the slop in the steering is in the rods connecting the steering wheel and the rack. Putting a bolt through these pieces helps a bunch.

Replace the front shocks with KONI Series 30 shocks.

Replace front shock springs.

Fabricate new fenders/mounts all the way around.

Re-align the right rear swing arm. It ended up with about 2 ½ inches of negative camber.

Replace the front turn signals.

Replace the front headlights.

Replace the HID lights on the light bar.

Replace the mirrors both sides.

Replace a section of the roll cage.

Replace the roll cage padding

Wire around the fuse box to power the fan.

Straighten various pieces as I discover they’re bent.

So far this project has cost about $2500.00 most of it in fabrication cost.

If you are interested I posted pictures on Webshots under Gumball Trooper Rebuild. They show where I am at as of today. There’s still work to be done, wiring the HIDs, tightening everything, etc. http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH

Many thanks to those that helped me get back on the road, Jarrad, Lenny, Brostar and Kinarfi. It’s great to be a part of this group.

Gumball

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gumball's rebuild photos are at http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH Enjoy

Gumball, on that shifter boot, pull it up until you only have one ripple under and the rest on top and I LIKE your fenders, especially the way you dropped the rear, but as I type this, thinking of copying your idea, I wonder if it would work with my shock, I can see where my wheel has ground off some of the stock plastic fender, so when I extended mine, I was careful to keep bolt out of the area where the tire may hit during high G loading. Like your front shocks to, may have to copy that also.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back in the saddle again!

The Trooper was inspected yesterday. After making sure everything worked I took it in, the inspector looked at the engine number, the Vin # and that was it. Well, at least everything is legal.

Here’s what been done so far:

Change the front-end Heim joints and ball joints to domestic parts. This meant cutting the old parts out and fabricating new steering arms and related parts.

Replace the left front CV bearing cage

Replace the CV Boots

Fabricate new A arm mounts.

Replace the steering rack to make steering more positive. NOTE: a lot of the slop in the steering is in the rods connecting the steering wheel and the rack. Putting a bolt through these pieces helps a bunch.

Replace the front shocks with KONI Series 30 shocks.

Replace front shock springs.

Fabricate new fenders/mounts all the way around.

Re-align the right rear swing arm. It ended up with about 2 ½ inches of negative camber.

Replace the front turn signals.

Replace the front headlights.

Replace the HID lights on the light bar.

Replace the mirrors both sides.

Replace a section of the roll cage.

Replace the roll cage padding

Wire around the fuse box to power the fan.

Straighten various pieces as I discover they’re bent.

So far this project has cost about $2500.00 most of it in fabrication cost.

If you are interested I posted pictures on Webshots under Gumball Trooper Rebuild. They show where I am at as of today. There’s still work to be done, wiring the HIDs, tightening everything, etc. http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH

Many thanks to those that helped me get back on the road, Jarrad, Lenny, Brostar and Kinarfi. It’s great to be a part of this group.

Gumball

I like how you changed the front end to domestic parts. Looks much more beefy. I have already changed my heims out but Im interested in what you did to the tie rod ends and ball joints on the outer a-arm. Can you make a close up picture of that. I couldnt find a pic in your gallery that showed it well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By Steve Toney
      Hello, my name is Steve and just signing up.  Bought my first UTV yesterday.  It is a Massimo T-Boss 550.  
    • By SafeSledBryan
      Hey guys! My name is Bryan and i am the owner and creator of Safe Sled. Not some crazy corporate backed recovery product, but just some guy with an idea. 
       
      4 years ago, I suffered 11 strokes, and am now 50% paralyzed on the left side of my body. I am unable to work a normal job anymore. I was working on the sled 2 years before this all unraveled. My wife told me to keep working on it since i was pissing her off staying home and doing nothing.
      I still plan on improving and implementing different ideas as the product’s revenue continues to grow.
      if the sled is appealing to you, please check out my website, safesledoffroad.com
      Safe Sled Website
    • By CBS
      Greetings from Southern Illinois. My name is Bruce and I currently have a Hisun HS550 Performance Rural King. I have had nothing but problems with this unit replaced so many parts of it and of course, it stopped working and will not start again for about the 3rd or 4th time since 2018 it only has a little over 500 miles and has cost me a bunch of money and headache and the Rural King where I purchased it has a repair man who is certified to work on HISUN but he charged me a little over $600 to repair it once back a few years ago and when I got it home after it being in his shop for over 2 weeks the thing worked for a very short time but when I went to start it the next day it was the same thing and they wouldn't check it further without me paying for service, labor, and parts and I went around and around with them and since there aren't any dealer service centers for Hisun near me and even most of them can't get to it for weeks to months and it could be at their shops for months as they tell me they have problems getting the parts needed from Hisun to fix these giant paper weights. Oh, and you can't buy a scan tool (code reader) Delphi 190121 unless you are one of their dealers and I can't find any other scanner tool that works with it except the Tiny Scan Tool which I purchased and it will work if I could find the correct adaptor cable and connector to connect the Tiny Scan to the diagnostic port on the Hisun HS550 Performance Rural King. Yep, I pretty much have been screwed every which way that can happen with this machine. I am disabled, have cancer, and am on a fixed income so I need help if anyone knows what the connector is called (type or part name) that will plug into the diagnostic port to get my scanner to work it is a 6-pin connector and I hear it only has to have 3 wires connected to it.
      Thanks 
    • By goindeep
      Well now i could use a lil help... i have a trooper in my shop now that has wiring issues... this poor guy paid another shop $1000 to re wire the body control harness, and boy oh boy did they chop it up!!! I am Buillding a new harness from scratch... what i need is a diagram that tells me what each fuse and relay control on the Engine fuse/relay block.. any help is greatly appreciated!!
      Josh
      No Limitz
×
×
  • Create New...