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Gumball

TALE OF THE TORTURED TROOPER

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Hiya,

As some of you know my Trooper was wrecked when it was thrown out my toy hauler. It is being rebuilt by a master fabricator, Chad Nichols at Nichols Fabrication. He's replaced much of the hardware in the front end and installed a new rack. He also installed my Koni shocks.

All was going well until he tried to start it this morning. Everything sounded fine but no start. After further inspection we found a FRIED fuse in the fuse box. That is likely the problem.

My question is, has anyone had experience replacing the box, and or, wiring around the box? I sent him the schematic so he can figure out what the fuse controls. I tried sending him the Trooper Owners manual but my ISP bounced it because the file was to big. Finding a website that has the manual has not been successful. If I can't find one I'll make a copy of the one I have and take it to him.

When the project is complete I'll post the results for all to see. Thanks to Lenny and Jarrad for their help.

Gumball

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Hiya,

As some of you know my Trooper was wrecked when it was thrown out my toy hauler. It is being rebuilt by a master fabricator, Chad Nichols at Nichols Fabrication. He's replaced much of the hardware in the front end and installed a new rack. He also installed my Koni shocks.

All was going well until he tried to start it this morning. Everything sounded fine but no start. After further inspection we found a FRIED fuse in the fuse box. That is likely the problem.

My question is, has anyone had experience replacing the box, and or, wiring around the box? I sent him the schematic so he can figure out what the fuse controls. I tried sending him the Trooper Owners manual but my ISP bounced it because the file was to big. Finding a website that has the manual has not been successful. If I can't find one I'll make a copy of the one I have and take it to him.

When the project is complete I'll post the results for all to see. Thanks to Lenny and Jarrad for their help.

Gumball

I had to replace my box and my relays my box shorted out and burnt up my wires

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If you electric weld on anything with electronics you take a chance of shorting out components. This is especially true if the battery is left connected. Can also happen to the dead vehicle when jump starting a battery. Can also happen if there is a HARD dead short to the system.

Hate chasing electrical & electronic problems.

rocmoc n AZ

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Hiya,

As some of you know my Trooper was wrecked when it was thrown out my toy hauler. It is being rebuilt by a master fabricator, Chad Nichols at Nichols Fabrication. He's replaced much of the hardware in the front end and installed a new rack. He also installed my Koni shocks.

All was going well until he tried to start it this morning. Everything sounded fine but no start. After further inspection we found a FRIED fuse in the fuse box. That is likely the problem.

My question is, has anyone had experience replacing the box, and or, wiring around the box? I sent him the schematic so he can figure out what the fuse controls. I tried sending him the Trooper Owners manual but my ISP bounced it because the file was to big. Finding a website that has the manual has not been successful. If I can't find one I'll make a copy of the one I have and take it to him.

When the project is complete I'll post the results for all to see. Thanks to Lenny and Jarrad for their help.

Gumball

Here is a link to the 2008 T2 Parts manual/ http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/1100trooperT2_parts_manual2008.pdf

This is the 2009 T2-T4 Manual http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/TR1100-T2-T4_manual2009.pdf

I hope this helps, & I bet you can't wait to get out there enjoying it again.

Cheers Mike.

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Greetings Brostar,

Thank you very much for the information. As it turns out the Trooper is once again running, minus the fried fuse. I'll pick it up tomorrow. Now the fun begins for me. There is considerable cosmetic damage left to fix. I'll probably end up replacing the fuse box to make sure it doesn't happen again.

I'll post a list of the repairs, etc. when I get it back together again. I'm happy I have you all when help is needed. Unlike Humpty Dumpty and all the kings men, you all helped me put it together again.

Gumball

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Back in the saddle again!

The Trooper was inspected yesterday. After making sure everything worked I took it in, the inspector looked at the engine number, the Vin # and that was it. Well, at least everything is legal.

Here’s what been done so far:

Change the front-end Heim joints and ball joints to domestic parts. This meant cutting the old parts out and fabricating new steering arms and related parts.

Replace the left front CV bearing cage

Replace the CV Boots

Fabricate new A arm mounts.

Replace the steering rack to make steering more positive. NOTE: a lot of the slop in the steering is in the rods connecting the steering wheel and the rack. Putting a bolt through these pieces helps a bunch.

Replace the front shocks with KONI Series 30 shocks.

Replace front shock springs.

Fabricate new fenders/mounts all the way around.

Re-align the right rear swing arm. It ended up with about 2 ½ inches of negative camber.

Replace the front turn signals.

Replace the front headlights.

Replace the HID lights on the light bar.

Replace the mirrors both sides.

Replace a section of the roll cage.

Replace the roll cage padding

Wire around the fuse box to power the fan.

Straighten various pieces as I discover they’re bent.

So far this project has cost about $2500.00 most of it in fabrication cost.

If you are interested I posted pictures on Webshots under Gumball Trooper Rebuild. They show where I am at as of today. There’s still work to be done, wiring the HIDs, tightening everything, etc. http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH

Many thanks to those that helped me get back on the road, Jarrad, Lenny, Brostar and Kinarfi. It’s great to be a part of this group.

Gumball

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Gumball's rebuild photos are at http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH Enjoy

Gumball, on that shifter boot, pull it up until you only have one ripple under and the rest on top and I LIKE your fenders, especially the way you dropped the rear, but as I type this, thinking of copying your idea, I wonder if it would work with my shock, I can see where my wheel has ground off some of the stock plastic fender, so when I extended mine, I was careful to keep bolt out of the area where the tire may hit during high G loading. Like your front shocks to, may have to copy that also.

Kinarfi

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Back in the saddle again!

The Trooper was inspected yesterday. After making sure everything worked I took it in, the inspector looked at the engine number, the Vin # and that was it. Well, at least everything is legal.

Here’s what been done so far:

Change the front-end Heim joints and ball joints to domestic parts. This meant cutting the old parts out and fabricating new steering arms and related parts.

Replace the left front CV bearing cage

Replace the CV Boots

Fabricate new A arm mounts.

Replace the steering rack to make steering more positive. NOTE: a lot of the slop in the steering is in the rods connecting the steering wheel and the rack. Putting a bolt through these pieces helps a bunch.

Replace the front shocks with KONI Series 30 shocks.

Replace front shock springs.

Fabricate new fenders/mounts all the way around.

Re-align the right rear swing arm. It ended up with about 2 ½ inches of negative camber.

Replace the front turn signals.

Replace the front headlights.

Replace the HID lights on the light bar.

Replace the mirrors both sides.

Replace a section of the roll cage.

Replace the roll cage padding

Wire around the fuse box to power the fan.

Straighten various pieces as I discover they’re bent.

So far this project has cost about $2500.00 most of it in fabrication cost.

If you are interested I posted pictures on Webshots under Gumball Trooper Rebuild. They show where I am at as of today. There’s still work to be done, wiring the HIDs, tightening everything, etc. http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH

Many thanks to those that helped me get back on the road, Jarrad, Lenny, Brostar and Kinarfi. It’s great to be a part of this group.

Gumball

I like how you changed the front end to domestic parts. Looks much more beefy. I have already changed my heims out but Im interested in what you did to the tie rod ends and ball joints on the outer a-arm. Can you make a close up picture of that. I couldnt find a pic in your gallery that showed it well.

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