Rear axles!!!!!!!
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By KBM
The gauge cluster has power and works but the tach does not. All fuses are good so I don't know if it is the gauge problem or some other electrical problem. Anyone have any thoughts on what it might be? KBM
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By 101_skeleton
so I ponder how to keep the aesthetics of a 1988 mule 1000 and to take a transverse engine from a fwd car and mount it longitudinally behind the seat but forward of the rear differential so as to have awd/4x4.
current progress on the power pack and drive train; Honda Civic Type R engine and transmission for the power and as for the suspension it will be Independent - I will be skipping right over multi-link suspension and trailing arm.
The main problems I face is cost (as to be expected) ,the finale drive ratios being so high, what differentials to use front and rear, and what suspension would fit.
the main goal is to have a fun road legal vehicle but without killing to much utility the side by side was make for!
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By papillion22
I'll start by saying i'm learning as i go & have come a long way, but there are some maintenance issues on my mule sx that must be addressed & i've got nobody around with experience & cannot bring it to a shop.
I've got rolling resistance when i jack up the front wheels. Months ago i thought i was possibly a brake issue but didn't yet have the equip. to pull the wheel hubs or press them back on... but the noise/friction seemed to resolve itself. I just checked up on it because i've got the tools for dealing with the brake system now and i noticed the wheels dont really spin... theres a lot of resistance and i can hear it coming from the front diff. I can't remember if it used to do that before, but i dont think it did. Its not the drive shaft or u-joints, but i've yet to pull them to be certain. it really sounds like its in the front diff. just where the drive shaft connects.
Should the front wheels - when in neutral and in 2wd and no diff. lock - spin freely? Theres too much drag for mine to even go once around. Can anyone point me in a direction? Otherwise its trial and error with cv axles, ball joints, brakes, etc. and i dont have the $ or time for that.
I'm in over my head and really hoping someone can help. I'll try to make a video of whats happening, hopefully the sound will come through well. Maybe that will help diagnose it. Thanks.
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By CYJSP2009
Dear Friends,
2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV Joint rebuild kits are comming
1. S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front
3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left
5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right
6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
7. 14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
8. 15803 --- 650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
Attached are the part photos for reference.
Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July.
Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece; CV Joint kit (without grease): USD110 send to door.
There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.
Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount,
Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount,
Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount.
Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement.
Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) . Payment commission paid by the buyer.
Interested parties, please contact [email protected].
Thanks
Good Luck
Casey / Leaf Asia
July-07-2022
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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