550 Travis' Mule 550

[Travis]

Readjusted the valves, and again I put some assembly lube along the valve springs, rocker arms, end of the pushrod where it goes in the rocker arm, and across the rocker pin. And for awhile that quited it down a bit...... 

Another crazy thing, I ch anged the transmission fluid in it, and now the differential works!!!, I went through some mud that I normally couldn't go through EASY!

[kenfain]

Well at least you're making headway on the part that you didn't want to mess with. As far as the tap goes, you might have to live with it. Unless you want to pull that head off, and redo the top end.

[Travis]

I'm going to see if my brother can come look at, he had the head off of his 91 dodge last year, with a ticking sound too.

Although there is probably some difference between a a 6 cyl diesel and 1 cyl. Gas.

 

One thing I was thinking about, I had to replace the exhaust side valve adjuster stud and nut, ( I stripped the old one) I wonder if that new adjuster meeting with the worn in valve is causing it.....?

[Travis]

I was watching this project farm video on youtube, ()

and if you skip to around 11:33, you hear the leaking head gasket? That is almost exactly what that tick noise sounds like....hmmm, or am I just going crazy.....

Then again, I have none of the other blown head gasket symptoms.

[kenfain]

You might try to find a leak down tester at the local auto parts tool loan program, and give that a try. Otherwise I'm assuming that there's not any oil leaking around where the cylinder meets the case. And if you pull the dipstick while its running, and oil doesn't come out. Nor is there any oil on the crankcase ventilation tube. That pretty much covers the head gasket. 

 

I'm still thinking that one of the lifters is the problem, but it's a good idea to keep an open mind. If it makes good power, and the plug is still looking good, and as long as it doesn't get worse. I'd just keep driving it for awhile.

Always keep an eye on it, and keep checking the plug. If it's anything significant then eventually it'll start showing signs of what's wrong with it. 

[Travis]

2 hours ago, kenfain said:

And if you pull the dipstick while its running, and oil doesn't come out. Nor is there any oil on the crankcase ventilation tube. That pretty much covers the head gasket. 

Yep, none of that.

I just wonder why or what is causing the lifter to tick, i shined my light down in the bore where the pushrods sit, and there was oil on the end of it and the pushrod...  i measured their diameter and they were both still in spec, and i lubed them up good when i installed them....

 

It hasn't gotten any worse since it started at all....

[kenfain]

Don't remember what kind of lifters you've got, but most American cars use hydraulic lifters that can stick. That'll cause ticking.

[Travis]

Mine aren't hydraulic, just the cam lobe, tappet and push rod.

 

one thing i just noticed, with the valve cover off, the intake valve was slightly depressed, and I was able to spin the push rod between the tappet, and the rocker arm....

[kenfain]

I'd say you're on to something there. That push rod should be tight, if the valve is depressed at all. Are you sure that you had the piston at TDC, and on the correct stroke when adjusted?

[Travis]

Positive, , I stuck a screwdriver through the plug hole to find TDC.

[Travis]

Okay, whenever the intake valve is fully opened, the rod has no slack, but as soon as pressure gets took off, it can spin.

[kenfain]

Up should be the least pressure. When it starts coming down, that's when pressure is applied. Most engines have some sort of mark that indicates TDC. You might research that. The screwdriver method works too ...usually. The problem with the screwdriver method, is it's a judgement call, and not perfect. But it sounds suspiciously like maybe we're not quite at TDC. Just based on the symptoms, and subsequent description of same. 

If there's no marks, at all, then try adjustment of the valves by rocking the engine. Look for the sweet spot, when the slack in the rod appears. Because that's likely where your tap is. Adjust that to tolerance specs. See if that improves the situation. 

[Travis]

Hmm, I will definitely try it that way...👍

[kenfain]

If there's enough slack for the push rod to spin, then it can take some tightening with no problem. So its worth a try. Just be mindful of the original settings. You don't want to over tighten. A bent push rod would be bad. Just as long as there's the proper tolerance somewhere around the top. Just rock it back and forth, and try to push the feeler guage in while doing it. 

[Travis]

I may be on too something, I'll post the video with my findings soon.

[Travis]

**edit**, this is the valve i put the new adjuster on....

[Travis]

https://ibb.co/dcwsFH2

 

[Travis]

😣 

if  want to get rid of this tick, I HAVE to go back in, but deeper than I thought.

It appears to be the camshaft bearing, which is NON replaceable. You have to buy a whole new block and sidecover and cam. Around 500 smackaroos for fix. I knew I had to do it before, I was able too, but financially I couldn't afford it.

to replace the engine with say a Briggs or Kohler is 800 at least, to get the right amp alternator, and electric start option.

So I'm going to save my money and order everything I need, and now I know I'll know what I need to do this time.

I will probably start the work when school let's out for summer.