aefron88

Did you by chance install the one way bearing backwards?

Any water in your oil will turn it chocolate milky. It doesnt take much to turn it. after a couple % water dilution the rest of the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan, and refuse to mix with the oil at all. If you dont have chocolate milky looking oil there is very little if any water in it. If you are truly concerned about the oil the cheapest fix is to change it. They have recommended several grades of oil in these over the years, but cold it should be a 10 or 15 weight which is pretty thin. It will thicken when its warmer.

So you're sure the fuel isnt full? These things dont burn a lot of gas unless youre doing quite a few miles of driving. If it in indeed malfunctioning you ikely have two separate issues to track down. As i showed with the wiring diagram before there are separate plugs for fuel level & speed into the dash display. Feel free to check those behind the display and make sure theyre plugged in. Its very possible they did a poor job of plugging in both. Remove both plugs and check for bent pins before reinstalling. The fuel sensor wiring on the tank side is directly under the seat, on the top of the tank. its a 4 pin connector. Removr the pump module and check resistance between the middle two pins, while moving the float by hand, and see if it changes. Also ensure the float isnt full of liquid, or frozen in position for some reason. The speed sensor is screwed into the rear axle and has 3 pins. You should show 9V betwen white/black & black. When the axle is spinning you should get a 5V square signal between white/teal & black. This will show up on a decent multimeter as varying voltage as the rear wheels spin. You can jack them up and have someone spin as you test it with the meter. Unfortunately the service manuals dont provide resistance specs for either of those sensors.

Interesting. Do you think it was over torqued? Failing wheel bearing? Just crud from assembly?

Kirk, I believe its a standard automotive type bendix starter, no one way bearing involved. First have you checked the battery voltage? 12.5+V? If thats good, and it seems to be spinning fast enough, I would remove it and bench test it next. As it spins the bendix gear should extend.

Here is my post about adding heat shielding/sound deadening under the bed. Note if you want to build a box the engine does need air flow in a couple spots so it would be hard to seal. There is also a similar post over on the Hisun forum you can check out.

So just to be clear in your original picture it shows the fuel tank full. Could you please post a current picture of your fuel gauge, and what level you think the tank should be at? Just trying to make sure we're on the same page before we go further troubleshooting.

I didn't have a squealing issue on mine when I did this, it was essentially brand new and only had a couple miles on it. It was definitely too tight from the factory, and it won't hurt to adjust. It's also quick and easy to do.

Just the one box of what I posted at the bottom of the other thread. Still have half a box left over. You should be able to measure what you want to cover and make a good guess sqft wise.

I just figured I'd get under the metal bed which seemed to resonate the engine/exhaust noise the most. I guess I could also do the inside of the plastic behind your feet. I also avoided under the wheel wells because on the Coleman 400 there are no rear fender liners and I was concerned that it would be an issue with mud getting kicked up.

Find any blown fuses? Still having issues?

My experience with sound deadening mat. It definitely helped bring the noise level down on my 400, and the cost is really minimal. I didn't go too crazy with it just under the center of the bed, but it was a noticeable improvement.

WEUPE Sound Deadening Mat for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNYBM5J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My best guess is that the spline on the fwd end of the driveshaft is stripped out, but only one way to find out...

Sounds like your rear axle/driveshaft are ok. I don't see a reason to check the front, as we know that is fine. If you flip the rubber part you can check where the rear driveshaft goes into the motor. The splines may be stripped out. You may need to remove the shaft by disconnecting the rear u-joint, and pull it out to get a good look at the splines. Sorry I'm not 100% sure on this model as this part is a bit different on my 400.

Hey Rick, I'm not familiar with the 700, but I can try. When it's in gear and you try to drive it in 2wd does the rear driveshaft spin at all? Can you grab rear driveshaft and give it a strong wiggle on both ends and make sure the u-joints are still intact? There shouldn't be any play on either.

Correct, sorry if I forgot to mention that. Like any 4 stroke the cam goes a half turn for a full turn of the crank. Glad you got your issue sorted! Hopefully you get another 5900 miles!

Joe, do you have a volt meter? What is the voltage on the battery with the machine off? How about with the engine running? They do have a small parasitic draw just like almost every other vehicle, and the battery will drain over time. With any toy that isn't used frequently you should hook up a battery tender or small solar panel, or unhook the battery when not in use so it will work when you want it to.

Well if you want to I have a post on how to read engine ECU and adjust parametera. The ability to adjust fuel mapping is in the software, but I have not played with it.

Good to hear! Fingers crossed you don't have any further issues.

It should say on the back. The exception being that Shell Rotella does not say it's MA and it's ok to use. I don't believe regular Amsoil is MA rated, but I'm sure they do sell some MA rated oils that labeled for motorcycles/powerboats use. Here's the relevant section frm your document. For each weight of oil it lists the specs that it meets; API SN, Ford or GM blah blah...no MA or MA2 for any of the oils listed.

I don't have a specific source aside from the various parts sites that everyone is aware of. Amazon also seems to carry em. Multec 3.5 injectors have a factory spec of 12 ohms @ 20⁰C. I'm not sure how far that you can stray before it's considered out of spec. As long as it's the right size you won't get any gains, you can adjust the fuel mapping using some free software and about $25 in cabling, but I doubt there's much to be gained on a motor of such small displacement.

In my experience with "structural" items that may see a lot of flex or pressure the best bet is to use something like this. bondo doesnt flex enough and will fall off, certain epoxies may be ok in lower stress situations. The staple welder style tool above gives the plastic real structure to stay together long term.

Amautv, Did you ever remove the bearing? How did it work out?

Let me know how it goes, and if it fixes your issues or if we need to further troubleshoot.