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Rear Diff. blowup


latch73

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Not 100% clear on this yet but a friend of mine who also owns a T2 had his rear end go out on him the other day. He tore it down and found what looked like one of the bolts that hold the ring gear on had backed out and caused the pinion and ring gear to lock up and striped some of teeth off. He is still in the evaluation process and is in touch with Joyner. I will update as soon as I learn more. :(

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Not 100% clear on this yet but a friend of mine who also owns a T2 had his rear end go out on him the other day. He tore it down and found what looked like one of the bolts that hold the ring gear on had backed out and caused the pinion and ring gear to lock up and striped some of teeth off. He is still in the evaluation process and is in touch with Joyner. I will update as soon as I learn more. :(

Please get photos and post on http://community.webshots.com/user/TrooperFolk

If you need help, let me know.

I think differential info will become important and interesting.

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Just had mine apart to look at it when i was redoing the back. Noticed that all the bolts on mine where saftey wired.

He said that also so thats why im not 100% sure as to what happened. I will see him at work tonight an hope I can get a little better understanding. I am on graveyards so it takes my brain a little longer to compute things :blink:

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New update on rear diff. My friend said that the bolt holding on the ring gear did not back out but actualy busted off in the middle of the bolt and the threaded end went out the back side. The bolt head with retaining wire was still in the ring gear. He has some pictures and as soon as I get them I will download onto the trooperfolk webshots. He said that Joyner is working with him on the investigation to see who is going to replace the diff.

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  • 4 months later...

exile, welcome to UTV Boards & sorry to hear that. I found this for you from Jeff at No Limits Powersports. It's the factory replacement but it has been checked for proper spacing & gear load. Price $925. You might get it cheaper from Joyner but at least you know this has had the once over inside. http://www.shop.nolimitspowersports.com/pr...p;productId=144

Cheers Mike.

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  • 1 month later...

My rear dif has had a clunking noise and my locker wasn't working. Finally get around to tearing it down and all the bolts holding on the ring gear are pulling out. The ring gear would rock back and forth. All the bolts had safety wire or I am sure one would have fallen out and caused big trouble.

All the bolts are soft I will be replacing them with harder ones on Monday and lock tight instead of safety wire. Has anyone else run into this problem?

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I think this is a known problem by Joyner. My dealer called me up out of the blue one day and wanted to know my diffs serial number. He has seen this same thing twice and is trying to be proactive about the problem. This may or may not help but I'd give Joyner a ring and see what they can do for you.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sound Like I have the same problem, all the bolts are sheared, the safety wire is strewn through out the diff and the inside is broken.

2037019270104282158UbRvqX_th.jpg

If I don't get one via warranty, any one know of any others, or have any ideas that might help?

Don't think I'll be going anywhere for some time.$$$$$$ :blink::(

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When did you have your problem, or you having it right now? Where you buy yours?

Kinarfi

I heard it for the first time last fall but I did not ride but about 10 miles all winter. I tore it down about a month ago and found most of the bolts had pulled the threads off of them. I put in harder bolts with lock tight and hopefully it will not happen again.

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Me too, but if it does, I hope they do as well with this issue as they did with the U-Joint problem. If they do have a problem, it would be sweet to let those who have the problem diffs know about it so the bolts can be replaced or what ever need doing can be done.

Kinarfi

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Sent email to Casey yesterday and got a call this morning, gave me pretty good deal on a new Diff, Thanks Casey. I'm kind of over a barrel of buy or don't ride, I bought it and it's on it's way :D , along with an unbroken fender, :( unlike mine. After it gets here, I plan to pull the front and check it out, especially if I drain it and the oil is silvery. I recommend the same for any diffs that make any noise, mine did when backing up, or if the oil is silvery.

I'm trying to find some super tough bolts, according to Casey they're jet bolts, M8 with 10mm head, probably a fine thread, titanium or something really tough. If you know where to find them, please post.

My Thanks to Casey, who seems to be trying to take good care of us and still take care of Team Joyner.

kinarfi

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Sent email to Casey yesterday and got a call this morning, gave me pretty good deal on a new Diff, Thanks Casey. I'm kind of over a barrel of buy or don't ride, I bought it and it's on it's way :D , along with an unbroken fender, :( unlike mine. After it gets here, I plan to pull the front and check it out, especially if I drain it and the oil is silvery. I recommend the same for any diffs that make any noise, mine did when backing up, or if the oil is silvery.

I'm trying to find some super tough bolts, according to Casey they're jet bolts, M8 with 10mm head, probably a fine thread, titanium or something really tough. If you know where to find them, please post.

My Thanks to Casey, who seems to be trying to take good care of us and still take care of Team Joyner.

kinarfi

Casey is really nice. Glad you're getting your rear diff. When did you break your fender?

Cinda

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2004008850104282158AUlCVh_th.jpg

Got mine tore apart and partially put back together, the only definite failed piece other than the bolts and bearing support was the shielded bearing 6912Z. It looks to me like the bolts should have been shoulder bolts, I would have mic'd them but I don't have an inside caliper. Check my photos. With some rebuilding of the housing and a new bearing, and I'll have a serviceable differential, could save if for spare, could sell it. Casey said to use a Jet Bolt, smaller head than normal, it's an 8mm X 1.0 thread with a 10 mm head, don't know the length, but one with the right size shoulder that went through both pieces minus a mm would be perfect and strong. I washed it all with gas and then washed the gas off with soap and water and blew dry all the parts and sprayed everything with white lithium grease to protect it. Also wadded up one of those spacers between the spider gear and the housing. Didn't know what it was at first, figured it out later because I only had 3 of them. Again, check out the photos and add to it.

Kinarfi

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Got my new differential and promptly disassembled it. Having done so, I recommend everyone open up their differential and make a few checks, Here's two things I think need doing, even if your not have trouble yet.

1. that little screw that holds the shaft in for the spider system in place, pull it clean it and the hole with brake cleaner, lock tite it and put it back in snug.

2234079920104282158sPBTef_th.jpg 2292185400104282158XkdtwA_th.jpg 2658530140104282158oAQJgg_th.jpg 2033865160104282158GxFLMD_th.jpg 2784375900104282158mimfHW_th.jpg

1st pict is the screw I'm talking about, 2nd the screw and the slot in the pin, 3rd the heads of both pins, notice the damage to the head of one pin , 4th, damage done by the pin as it was coming out, 5th undamaged new housing.

2. The bolts holding the ring gear on leave something to be desired in my book, I'm working with Lenny and we think we have a solution, get a 10.9 grade bolt and a nut for it, machine the nut down to fit the hole and that should do away with any play. Lenny can probably put together a kit for a nominal fee or if you know a machinist, ....

That 6912Z bearing with the shields on, I took the shields off, cleaned it with gas, soap and water, sprayed some white lithium grease on it and it's good to go, any one know of a reason to have shields on a bearing in a differential, and why is the spider full of grease, I understand a little for assembly, but packed clear full??????

Any of you racers have any other suggestions while were inside these diffs?

Thanks

Kinarfi

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Guest Lenny

I can put together a kit for the diffs. This kit would provide higher grade ( 10.9 mtric grade = to our grade 8 aprox. ) bolts to replace the stock bolts ( 8.8 metric grade = to our grade 5 aprox. ). These bolts would be ordered longer but then be shortened to have just enough length to receive a locking nut on the back side of the big ring gear. There is enough space to run this extra nut that is not on the stock setup. These bolts would have an additional hex nut run up on them under the head and then machined down to fit within about .001" of the unthreaded holes in the the first two plates. This would eliminate the slop in those holes and stop the potential for movement which can losen the bolts. Loc-tite #271 should be used not only on the threads but the shank part going through the unthreaded holes and the locking nut. Also kit would include stainless steel shims so that the diff can be put to proper gear clearance tolerance. There will be shims for both sides all 3 shafts. You may or may not use all provided shims. Joyner has also omited a snap ring which can be eliminated but with it, clearances can be better dictated. This snap ring would be included. I would also provide written instructions on how to properly set up your diff. This kit should make a substantial improvement in the reliability and running smoothness of your diff. This would need to preferably be done to both diffs. Thus 2 kits would have to be bought.

Here is where my concern is. The bolts are hard to find in a higher strength bolt because they are a metric fine thread which you can't hardly find making them a little pricy. They won't be hex cap screws which are unavailable but socket cap screws. I have to buy them 100 peices at a time. The shims have to be ordered and come 10 to a pack and there are 5 different sizes. You would not be getting 10 of each size but only what you need plus a few extra in case your starting clerances are different then mine. All said and done, I'll have $40-$45 ino each kit plus machining time, packaging and shipping. I'll need to get at least $90 per kit to make it worth my time. This times 2 diffs gets a little expensive. Thus I'm not sure others are going to want to spend this much. I can't just make 4 or 5 kits because, it just doesn't pay. Let me know if your interested in these kits. It does require removing your diff and tearing it down plus you'll need loc-tite and gasket sealer which won't be provided in the kit. I'll be ordering stuff for Knarfi's & my trooper on Monday. If you want to do it yourself to maybe save some cost, I'll be glad to tell you what you need and where you can get it so you can get it yourself. You will need someone to machine the nuts into sleeves on the bolts.

Let me know.

Thanks,

Lenny

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