Leaderboard

Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

White smoke is usually coolant leaking into the cylinder. Sounds like a blown head gasket to me.

Since it's designed to go thru mud and water, I can't see how you can hurt it .Just don't spray into the air filter box.I pressure was my UTV and Atvs after each use to prevent corrosion

Hi Space Ghost and welcome. I'm one of the originals here but don't post much these days. After reading your posts I feel obliged to reach out to you. Firstly thanks for your service and the sacrifices you've made. We are a Powersports Dealer and can and will give you at least a 10% discount on parts and accessories you may need. Contact other Powersports dealers and they will help you too. You deserve to get the best deals going. Contact me at any time and just mention UTV Board. Thanks, Mike.

My Service dog Bärli on the left with his battle buddy Louie on the right.

Welcome Space Ghost, I too just upgraded from a quad ATV to a full cab UTV. For many of the same reasons as you. My service-connected disabilities make it very difficult to ride and be out in the elements anymore. The new UTV is making riding still possible. Thank you for your service!

Not sure if this would be an option for your 550: I'm using a 72" KFI plow on my Hisun Sector 750 - works well. Driveway is 350'+ x 12'. One pass down the middle and then one on either side. (photo is UTV with plow at the dealer's - was delivered that way). Note - need to manually adjust plow angle.

if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

I was reading through an old thread about the woes of the risky ownership of Hisun UTVs. Well, OK. So we all own some problematic machines. But I’ll say this. I’ve owned bicycles, automobiles, snowmobiles, PWCs, boats motorcycles, class 8 trucks, airplanes and a crapload of heavy equipment. Nothing I’ve owned and operated hasn’t broken or needed maintenance. The difference between all those prior items and my Hisun, I feel, is the support (or lack of)from the factory and dealership. That’s where this and other forums come in. We’re all we have! Well, us and YouTube. Oddly enough though, with help I’ve received from YouTube and you guys,I’m actually starting to enjoy crawling through this machine, and screw the factory/dealer. I’ll make this vehicle what they didn’t. And have fun doing it.

I thank you PB

Did you take a look at the parts diagram?...https://alpha-sports.com/massimo_parts.htm?q=massimo-parts I suppose there may be a unique situation that only a 1 off bolt or screw may work, but everything I see on the parts diagrams are standard metric bolts. They are after all trying to minimize costs, and creating unique hardware hardly seems productive.

Hisun Sector E1 Discovery to Lithium Conversion. So I went ahead and did the conversion using the LiTime 4-pack 48V 30Ah GC2 which I ordered on Amazon Prime Day for $1840 ($460/battery). Also bought the LiTime 58.4V 18A ($200) Lithium Battery Charge and “Superboni” 7pc set #2 Awg HD Golf Cart Battery Club Car 48 Wire Kit ($56). I utilized the LiTime charger to activate the Bluetooth and charge each battery to full. Then, connected them all in parallel and allowed them to balance both internal cells of each battery and between batteries which took several hours. Removed all the old Discovery batteries which as stated before requires the removal of the front panel under the seating and is much easier if you disconnect the piston allowing the rear bed to open fully. Placed the 4 new batteries in the most interior positions and had to utilize the braces from the exterior positions because the H-brace from the interior positions overlapped the battery terminals on the new batteries. Be sure to position the batteries so the original connections can reach which for me was positioning the negative terminal on both posterior batteries towards the rear. I connected the batteries in parallel for balanced but not perfectly balanced charging/discharge because it would require connections crossing over the controller sitting between the left and right battery positions. Basically, the connections followed a “U” pattern around the controller. I used this webpage to help wire the batteries: https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Iota_balanced_charging.pdf I reprogrammed the Delta-Q charger to profile #233 charging to 56V as previously mentioned by Jaime since I read it is not recommended to utilize the max charge voltage which would have been profile #386 charging to 58.4V. https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/14188856858893-Choosing-an-Algorithm-for-a-Lithium-Battery How to upload new profiles: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622531-IC-Series-How-to-reprogram-reflash-or-upgrade-software-and-algorithms-via-USB How to change charger profile: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016475772-Changing-Algorithms-on-IC-Series-Chargers Download profiles here: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622311-Download-Algorithms-for-IC-Series-Chargers Put everything back together and took it for a test run. Everything appeared to function properly and certainly has more power. I am using the battery Bluetooth with the LiTime App to monitor the batteries individually and the App has a feature that allows you to monitor all 4 batteries as a system. I was able to see that the batteries did charge on the Delta Q charger as well. It’s been less than a week, so I will update if anything changes, but overall for less than $2100 + tax/shipping(free since I have Amazon Prime), I’m very happy with the conversion. Hope this helps anyone else thinking of making the leap to Lithium.

there was a time I could say my HAIR would protect my head... not any more

Stay away from Chinese UTVs.Service is non existant.They don't honor warranty. I personally like HONDA for their durability .

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

I have come to the conclusion @Joe Toup must be one of the very best, most helpful members here!!! He has been tireless sharing his knowledge and expertise helping me solve a problem. I am sure I'm near a good solution thanks to Joe!!👍👍👍

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake. I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released. If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

anybody else getting spam /fraud private messages on here besides me? How do I report it? He calls himself Maria .under ORANGE 15 name.. wants to hook up in UTVs .. con artist in Pakistan probably.. Cant ADMIN block this crap ? geesh

I bought a 2" adapter tube from Amazon and now I just slide my Reese hitch into the adapter.

Yep and I bought it for $3000. You will notice that I added a bunch of crash bars on the front, that is cuz I ripped all the fenders of crashing through brush. I made my own fenders out of 3/16 polycarbonate, fit to the frame and no more problems.

I bought a new Hisun Sector 750 in Jan. 2021 mainly due to price and features. I also bought a plow with it to clear snow from my 350' driveway during the 2021 winter since we couldn't go south due to covid. Like Alien10 I use it primarily to haul firewood on our 75ac property and although licensed and insured I rarely take it out on the public roads. I don't abuse it but don't baby it either. I've used the winch a lot to haul large logs out of the bush to where I can easily cut them up and haul the pieces back to my wood pile. Other than the first winter, it's stored in an uninsulated shed in the winter - only storage prep is to add and circulate sufficient fuel stabilizer. I've left the battery in and cables attached - so far it has fired right up in the spring. I have about 75 hours on the clock. As for maintenance, other than oil changes, I've been fortunate - just an issue with steering last spring when it would suddenly jerk to the left while driving in a straight line. It was an intermittent and baffling problem. Also fortunately I found a sales/repair shop 10 miles from me that also handles Hisun and they were able to solve the problem. All in all, I've had a positive experience with my UTV and it's doing what I need it to do. YMMV

There is nothing convenient easy, or reliable about anything named Hisun..in my experience they are cheaply built, poorly assembled, unreliable, and not backed by any thing resembling warranty or customer service Had someone warned me before buying mine new at Tractor Supply, I would have bought the Honda or CF MOTO

Not long here myself, and don't have a Kioti anything, but welcome to the site! And a hearty Thank You!

Been there done that. Got the DD214 to prove it. Still can't be an artist. Said my condition was not service related. LOL Just got a call from the GF at new company. Said he'd send me a list of what to bring for orientation and training and I'd start on Jan 7th. My future is looking so bright I've got to wear shades.

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

does sound like kind of an asshole don't he.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

my skull is thick enough i don't have to....

I work on a ship that travels between Houston, Southern Lousiana, and Florida...miserable all summer. I dont know how you guys manage it. I never seem to find the right balance between staying hydrated and peeing constantly. I have worked asphalt barges in Lousiana in the summer too. 300 degree cargo means the temperatures on deck are even hotter since it radiates through the steel. Much nicer at home in Maine the other half of the year.

lol We only get low 70% humidity in January cold fronts...We wake up to 96% every morning ..Last year we actually had Heat index in the 120s for a month.. Its hot down here in the swamp.🥵

@Alex Fantastic! You fixed the add conundrum. It was really awful. Thank you so much. The forum is useable now.

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.

Looks like we are getting somewhere now. checked the Fuel (Gas) cap. No vent there - the tank is vented via a carbon filter to the air intake. Air flow is fine. Disconnected the fuel pump from the carby and stuck the end in a jar and ran the engine up (the carby holds a fair bit pf fuel and the engine will run for a while with no fuel supply. At idle and low RPM the flow seemed ok but as the RPM increased the flow decreased and eventually stopped. I wasnt able to get another pump here at a reasonable price so pinched the pump from my lawn mower which has a 450 - 500 cc motor so should be close enough to work and tried the test again. The first thing I noticed was the fuel flow was much higher at low RPM and at high RPM while the flow did decrease it still kept pumping. The second test only ran for about 20 secs and I collected substantially more fuel than I did in the first test which was about 40secs. So I have left my lawnmowers pump in the Mule and took it back out to the farm and took it for a good run up some hills loaded up a trailer and dragged that up through a boggy paddock and she didn't skip a beat. So it looks like the fuel pump was the culprit (after the gummed up choke was sorted). Interestingly though I put the Mules Fuel pump in my mower and cut the front yard at home and it seemed to work fine. Though the mower doesnt tend to run at as high an RPM as the mule and any heavy loads are generally short lived so the issue would not be so evident - Ive got a new pump on order at any rate. Thanks for all the input and suggestions - I hope the discussion helps someone else in the future.

https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/details/KubotaParts/Kubota-Front-Accessory-Box/K7311-99560/ You might also see what a local or nearby Kubota dealer can get it for. 99% Of the time they won't charge shipping when it's shipped to a dealer.

Couldn't have said it better myself. For a guy who hates Hisun he sure spends a lot of time posting in the Hisun forum...

Thanks for taking care of the spam, UTV Board Admin.

Yep, much better for hauling stands and everything else. Although it's a little harder to load a big buck in the dump bed than it was to drag one across the atv. I picked up a chain-on hoist after last season! https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Solutions-VS-VHK001-Game-Processing/dp/B00KTMXNTY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1YOHK2JY2Q450&keywords=hoist+game&qid=1652957591&sprefix=hoist+game%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6

well, blame unions and democrats for making labor costs of $60 /hr for a guy pushing a button on a robot .. If that belt was Union made in NY or CA it would be $300.00 I have found GATES to still be good quality belts even tho its imported.. Dont buy the EL CHEAPO brand at Autozone.. I did once because Gates was out of stock.. lasted 2 months . Luckily I had put the old belt in the trunk.

i have been waiting 7 months now for my terryx SxS no word on when it will arrive thanks uncle joe

You might have missed a wire connection or something similar. It's not that uncommon to break other stuff while you're working on something. It happens, and you shouldn't worry about it. Just move on, and focus on finding the problem. You need to go over all the wiring that might have been disturbed, or disconnected, while fixing the last issue. It cranks, but have you looked to see if it's got spark? If not, then check the coil

I bought a MSU 500 Massimo /HISUN product from Tractor Supply. in 2018 .. In the shop 6 times in first year for overheating, cracked head, head gaskets , waterpump, etc...... ZERO WARRANTY REIMBURSEMENT from company... It broke on its first use on its first day!! RUN, dont walk away from any HISUN UTV.. They are junk .. You have been warned.

Hisun makes them for Lowe's.... read through the Hisun and Massimo forum. Honestly i don't think their products, nor there after sale services are very good. I doubt Lowe's would be any help if you needed a warranty claim, or tech help. I'd go with the Honda just for the fact of the unmatched reliable reputation they've built.

Yep. Mine is the same. This shows you have a full tank. The indicators will disappear from right to left as it consumes fuel.