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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

White smoke is usually coolant leaking into the cylinder. Sounds like a blown head gasket to me.

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

I have come to the conclusion @Joe Toup must be one of the very best, most helpful members here!!! He has been tireless sharing his knowledge and expertise helping me solve a problem. I am sure I'm near a good solution thanks to Joe!!👍👍👍

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake. I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released. If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

anybody else getting spam /fraud private messages on here besides me? How do I report it? He calls himself Maria .under ORANGE 15 name.. wants to hook up in UTVs .. con artist in Pakistan probably.. Cant ADMIN block this crap ? geesh

I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar. Tools: First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment. Technique: Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear. Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty. If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease. Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess. Greasepoints: Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

Hey Folks There are not a lot of good sources out there for troubleshooting and diagnosing ECU problems with the Massimo Buck, Bennche Bighorn, Bennche Cowboy, & Cazador machines that use the Delphi MT05 ECU. They are all basically the same with different badging, so I thought I'd share some info that I found during some searches. I was trying to help someone diagnose and repair a hard starting issue. The ignition coil was throwing a 0351 code. I discovered how to read codes without an OBDII code reader. The following procedures should help you check your fault codes and clear them if needed. Fault Code Troubleshooting for Delphi MT05 ECU on the Massimo Buck 400, Bennche Bighorn 400, Bennche Cowboy 400, and Cazador 400 *NOTE: The MT05 ECU is not really OBD 2 compliant. It is much more similar to an OBDI system. The MT05 ECU controls either 1 or 2 cylinder engines commonly found on Massimo, Bennche, and Cazador. Much of the ECU info was found here: https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/Delphi MT05 Manual.pdf Delphi EFI System Design Delphi EFI employs 5 sensors to monitor engine performance. 1. Crankshaft Position Sensor 2. Coolant Temperature Sensor 3. Oxygen Sensor 4. Throttle Position Sensor 5. Manifold Air Pressure/Manifold Air Temperature (MAP/MAT) Sensor Delphi EFI employs the following system components. 1. MT05 Engine Control Unit (ECU) 2. Fuel Pump 3. Multec 3.5 Fuel Injector 4. Idle Speed Control Valve (Idle Stepper Motor) 5. Multec Ignition Coil 6. Fuel Vapor Canister Purge Valve Using the Digital Dashboard to Decipher EFI Trouble Codes In addition to commercially available diagnostic scan tools (Big $$$), you can use the engine warning light of the Siemens dashboard to diagnose most of your EFI problems. The digital dashboard receives signals from the MT05 ECU, and the engine warning light will flash a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) if the ignition key is switched on/off for three cycles. When you turn on the ignition, the engine warning light will illuminate, which indicates the EFI system is operational. After the engine is started, the engine warning light will extinguish if the EFI system is working properly. However, if the engine warning light remains illuminated, it indicates the EFI system is not working properly, and there is a system component failure. Deciphering Diagnostic Trouble Codes To read the diagnostic trouble code (DTC), open and close the ignition key three times in rapid succession, as follows: open/close—open/close—open. At this point the engine warning light will flash a DTC which indicates the fault in the EFI system. Refer to the attached fault code table to identify the corresponding problem. The engine warning light will emit a sequence of flashing lights. If the light flashes 10 times, the translated number is 0. If the light flashes one time, the translated number is 1, et cetera. For example, if the MAP/MAT sensor is disconnected, or the connector is shorted to ground, the engine warning light will flash in the following manner (This is an example only). The engine warning light will flash 10 times: The first number of the DTC is 0 After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 1 time: The second number of the DTC is 1 After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 10 times: The third number of the DTC is 0 After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 7 times: The fourth number of the DTC is 7 The resulting DTC is P0107. NOTE: For the system I was helping to troubleshoot, I suspected an ignition coil failure due to the code that was thrown. When it was checked, it was flashing: 10, 3, 5, 1. The 10 represents a 0. So the actual code was 0351. After finding the code, the coil wire was checked and discovered loose at the spark plug. Once it was pushed fully on, the problem was fixed. Most likely, this problem was created after the owner had pulled the spark plug to check the gap. The ECU was rebooted using the procedures detailed below with no more codes being thrown. If there are other fault codes, the engine warning light will flash the next code in 3.2 seconds after finishing the first sequence. After all existing fault codes are flashed, the engine warning light will repeat the fault codes in a loop sequence, until the ignition key is turned off. To clear fault codes you either need an OBDII Fault Code reader and a Delphi 6 pin connector adapter cable that you have to order from China and wait 8 weeks…OR....you can simply reboot the ECU using the instructions detailed below. Rebooting the ECU Perform the following steps to reboot the ECU. 1. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition on/off for 5 cycles. Make sure each cycle lasts about ½ second, verifying the start of the fuel pump for each cycle. If the fuel pump doesn't start during any cycle, begin the entire reboot procedure from the beginning. 3. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds. TPS (throttle position sensor) re-learn procedure after rebooting ECU. This should be done after replacing the TPS or the ECU....and it is advisable to check proper idle after rebooting an ECU too. Source: ECU Hacker (Reworded process slightly to make it a more sensible flow in my mind): 1. Turn the idle screw one full turn clockwise before starting 2. Start the engine, and run at low idle until the engine warms. Maybe a couple of mins. 3. Idle should be above 1500 rpm. If it isn’t, turn it up to 1700 then shut the engine off. Do another reboot of ECU. 4. Restart the engine and let it stabilize at 1700 rpm. Then turn the idle screen down to 1500 rpm and let it stabilize for a few seconds. Once it stabilizes, set to the final recommended idle speed for your machine. The placard under (or behind) your seat should show idle speed, valve adjustment, spark gap, etc. Typically the 390 cc engines in the "400" machines run at 1600 rpm idle. 5. Shut it down. Wait 10-15 seconds before restarting. The procedure is now complete. Final Notes: I have included pictures of an OBDII connector and the Delphi 6 pin connector in case anyone wants to go buy stuff off ebay or local parts suppliers and build a connector to use for an OBDII reader. But...you can save money and simply do the same thing with code reading and resetting using the check engine light on your dash. Some folks prefer to do it with code readers. Hope the information provided helps if anyone ever needs it but cannot find it in repair manuals. I discovered most of this in some motorcycle forums. The source for the diagrams is here: https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/ Be advised: I am not a service technician. I do not endorse any manufacturers. I do not get paid to help, nor do I want to. This is just a hobby of mine. I enjoy working on things and solving problems. If you run into a weird problem that stumps you, give me a shout. I may be able to give you some ideas...or not. Just know, that troubleshooting thru emails can be challenging. The more info you can provide, the better. Otherwise, I will probably ask you a ton of questions. The good news is, the Delphi system used on these machines is essentially an OBDI and it is very simplistic. If you are methodical and patient, most of your "problems" can be figured out thru a process of elimination. Always go for the simple things first before throwing money and sensors at a machine. Take care - JT

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.

Hey now, that ain't right 🥴

I had a cover made for my UT 400 to keep things dry and out of sight. Seems like a handy addition. I’ll add some pics when I can.

A few pics and a short write up on my installation of the Ice Crusher heater kit for the Coleman / Hisun 400. Ice Crusher makes a kit for the Coleman 400 which includes a dash mounted heater core mounted in a compact housing that includes 2 heat outlets that can be aimed wherever you want or closed, a built in coolant shutoff valve for summer use and a 3 speed fan. The kit has all needed hoses,fittings,clamps and hardware so you don't need to hunt around for anything else in theory. The unit is well made and everything seems solid and sturdy enough to live in a UTV. Installation is pretty straight forward,raise the front about a foot and start planning where things need to go. Detailed instructions are included as well as a template on where to position the holes where the 2 hoses pass through the "firewall". There are instructions on exactly where to position the mounting screws etc for the heater unit etc. I did encounter a problem with the hose positioning template which positioned the holes about 1" too low and caused a problem with mounting the rear support bracket. I contacted the company and worked with their engineers to amend the template for future buyers. The coolant tap ins are basically cutting the original coolant hoses going to (passenger side) and from (driver side) and installing the supplied 3/4" to 1/2" tee fitting. One 1/2" hose connects to each of the two heater core pipes. The theory is that some of the coolant is directed through the heater,which should be adequate for cab heat. I found that the original radiator is quite large for the little 400 motor and didn't really allow the heater to provide heat for very long before getting too cool to help much. The solution was to add a 3/4" heater shut off valve in the passenger side radiator hose between the tee fitting and the radiator. This allows me the option of directing all of the hot coolant through the heater or a blend depending on conditions. This valve is a cable operated style with a simple push pull knob installed in the dash.Having the front end raised makes it easy to simply refill the radiator without the need to bleed the system. Very effective. After sealing up the soft enclosure, the heater is about as effective as a regular car of truck unit. The blend valve is available at any auto parts store as a kit with the cable and hardware for about $25. I have had zero issues with overheating even when running for a hour on the roads with all the coolant going through only the heater The heater kit sells for $399,which isn't cheap, but I figured with as fully equipped the Colman 400 is at the price I paid ($6999), why not make it as comfortable as possible? https://photos.app.goo.gl/L64ECvfTKDPjje4KA

after all the complaints on this forum about the other brands of utv's, i will stick with my mule...........not the fastest, not the most powerful, but it hauls stuff around the house and plows snow just fine..........

Paint chip is no good, but doubtful that it made it thru the filter, so it's likely been there, or got knocked off when you were working on removing things. Code 201 indicates that it is getting a weak or unexpected signal from the injector. The fuel metering is done by pulsing the injector open. The ECU expects it to be X resistance and it gets Y resistance instead and throws a code. This could be a failing injector (the internal solenoid may be failing) a loose or intermittent connection, chafed wire partially shorting to ground, moisture or corrosion in a connector, etc. It's likely intermittent, but will eventually get worse. When it's happening it will throw the code and give the engine the wrong amount of fuel causing stalling, performance issues, no start, etc. If it were me I would visually inspect the Injector wiring for chafing, check inside the connectors, and if I didnt find anything just throw a new injector at it. You can also check resistance of the injector, but if it's intermittent it may check out ok when you happen to check it.

I've been looking for a cross to a filter from a known manufacturer since I bought this machine. Both from a cost standpoint, and a known quality standpoint. The factory filters are just plain black with no markings. Due to price point on these machines I would assume that the factory filter would be made as.cheap as possible I have not had any real luck finding a cross, so In doing my first oil change I decided to cut the factory filter and see what is inside. I don't have a fancy oil filter cutting set up, so I just clamped it in the vise and went to town with my portaband. Excuse the rough cuts and metal shavings. Looks like a good quality filter, plenty of pleats/surface area. Metal endcaps. Excuse the crushing, that's from the vise/strap wrench to remove it. Relief valve And a spring in the bottom of the can to keep the top silicone anti-drainback pressed in place. Overall looks like a surprisingly good quality filter for a no name. At least we can know that using the factory filters on these should be acceptable. I feel better about paying $10 for this filter at least knowing it's good quality.

Looks like we are getting somewhere now. checked the Fuel (Gas) cap. No vent there - the tank is vented via a carbon filter to the air intake. Air flow is fine. Disconnected the fuel pump from the carby and stuck the end in a jar and ran the engine up (the carby holds a fair bit pf fuel and the engine will run for a while with no fuel supply. At idle and low RPM the flow seemed ok but as the RPM increased the flow decreased and eventually stopped. I wasnt able to get another pump here at a reasonable price so pinched the pump from my lawn mower which has a 450 - 500 cc motor so should be close enough to work and tried the test again. The first thing I noticed was the fuel flow was much higher at low RPM and at high RPM while the flow did decrease it still kept pumping. The second test only ran for about 20 secs and I collected substantially more fuel than I did in the first test which was about 40secs. So I have left my lawnmowers pump in the Mule and took it back out to the farm and took it for a good run up some hills loaded up a trailer and dragged that up through a boggy paddock and she didn't skip a beat. So it looks like the fuel pump was the culprit (after the gummed up choke was sorted). Interestingly though I put the Mules Fuel pump in my mower and cut the front yard at home and it seemed to work fine. Though the mower doesnt tend to run at as high an RPM as the mule and any heavy loads are generally short lived so the issue would not be so evident - Ive got a new pump on order at any rate. Thanks for all the input and suggestions - I hope the discussion helps someone else in the future.

Thanks but think I found the critter , the cam pressure relief spring had broken had to remove the head again to make sure nothing got crushed , but found everything installed new spring put back together , but made sure that the timing marks were where they were supposed to be , adjusted valve springs and it started right up, ran for a few seconds and I believe some garbage got into the fuel system , but thats for tomorrow problem solving !! ROFL thank's for sharing

The is always one other option...😂

https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/details/KubotaParts/Kubota-Front-Accessory-Box/K7311-99560/ You might also see what a local or nearby Kubota dealer can get it for. 99% Of the time they won't charge shipping when it's shipped to a dealer.

Couldn't have said it better myself. For a guy who hates Hisun he sure spends a lot of time posting in the Hisun forum...

The real problem, as I see it, is that the codes given are consistent with an engine that's running poorly. So imho, if it's not running with a substantial miss, then something else is going on. Like a possible failure of the CPU. Manufacturers are typically reluctant to give away parts without a reliable, trusted diagnosis of failure, such as that provided by an authorized service center. And a new CPU could be quite expensive, with no guarantee that'll cure the problem. Throwing parts at it is never a good plan anyway. Fixing it yourself, could be a long, expensive, frustrating endeavor. Complete with long down times, and fairly involved diagnostic procedures. If it were me, I'd try to make it Lowe's problem. By any means necessary, including a return.

Causes Low oil. Wrong oil. Using the throttle to hold you on an incline. Instead of using the break. Hauling/towing heavy load in high gear. These are a few I can think of. Best way to test a wet clutch or a CVT belt or something else. Raise the rear of the machine. Remove the cover on CVT housing. Start machine and put in gear. See if the CVT belt is spinning the primary and secondary. Turn off machine. Leave CVT cover OFF and lower the machine. Now start and put in gear and give a little gas. Does the primary sheave turn but the CVT belt slip? Does the CVT belt slip on the secondary sheave? Does nothing turn? If nothing turns. Then probably a wet clutch issue. If CVT belt slips. Then either a belt or junk built up on sheaves. Needed either belt replaced or sheaves cleaned or both, Hopes this helps and anybody correct me if I'm wrong.

I had Front left brake squeak. Removed wheel to investigate and found hub nut loose. Torqued to specs as close as I could, and that seems to have cured brake squeak problem.

Really hard to work out what happened. My view would be that it was a loose connection, If it was a battery going up, it would have been caused by a gas explosion and at least one of the batteries would have made a fair noise when it went, but if it was a poor connection then heat could have built up, to the point where the plastics melted and caught . Hard to track it down now, but a quick check of whats left of the cables could show up where one was loose. Such a horrible event. There have been other comments on a FB page when a faulty / inconsistent vehicle turned out to be a poor connection on a battery terminal. Personally I would swap the horrid 10mm headed painted battery bolts for m8x 20 Stainless screws and washers with single springs. Worth regularly checking their tightness. Another alternative cause could be the 12v battery. I have found one that was totally shot. But its not apparent to the user as the DC to DC runs continuously even when the ign is turned off. In this case a duff 12v battery will simply get hot and over heat, when over heating the electrolyte boils off, when plates touch they can spark and ignite the hydrogen inside the battery. My suggestion to users is to get a multimeter go under the drivers seat, find the 12v battery and (behind the drivers legs) and check the voltage (negative is towards the centre positive towards the side panel). Note the voltage. Hit the big red button. That breaks the 48v circuit. The DC to DC will shut down. Leave it for 10 minutes. Re check the 12v battery. If its well above 12v it should be OK , if not then your battery may need topping up , or replacing. If below 12v then its a replacement, as its way under voltage, and probably has one cell dead.

Thanks for taking care of the spam, UTV Board Admin.

That's extremely prevalent on the internet. I get random emails like that almost daily. They always seem so innocent. But you would think that some people would be cautious, with all the red flags with any of those emails. I just delete them and move on. Maybe it's just my pessimistic view of the world.

LOL!

To get the proper break-in I get it. I tend to agree

Yep, much better for hauling stands and everything else. Although it's a little harder to load a big buck in the dump bed than it was to drag one across the atv. I picked up a chain-on hoist after last season! https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Solutions-VS-VHK001-Game-Processing/dp/B00KTMXNTY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1YOHK2JY2Q450&keywords=hoist+game&qid=1652957591&sprefix=hoist+game%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6

well, blame unions and democrats for making labor costs of $60 /hr for a guy pushing a button on a robot .. If that belt was Union made in NY or CA it would be $300.00 I have found GATES to still be good quality belts even tho its imported.. Dont buy the EL CHEAPO brand at Autozone.. I did once because Gates was out of stock.. lasted 2 months . Luckily I had put the old belt in the trunk.

I bought a 2" adapter tube from Amazon and now I just slide my Reese hitch into the adapter.

i have been waiting 7 months now for my terryx SxS no word on when it will arrive thanks uncle joe

You might have missed a wire connection or something similar. It's not that uncommon to break other stuff while you're working on something. It happens, and you shouldn't worry about it. Just move on, and focus on finding the problem. You need to go over all the wiring that might have been disturbed, or disconnected, while fixing the last issue. It cranks, but have you looked to see if it's got spark? If not, then check the coil

Update on my Axis 700. Contacted Lowe’s to explain what happened. Store manager, Fatima, in Mechanicsville VA was awesome. She paid for my gas for the round trip back which was $170 and then doubled it. She then gave me a new 700 with full tank of gas. It ran good yesterday so we’ll see. I told her if any happens again, I will be taking it to the nearest Lowe’s for a full refund and she said she would make sure it was taken care of. The original 700 did start after a trickle charge. Had to be a bad alternator, or loose wiring. These things do happen. I wish I could purchase a more expensive utv, however I lost my job because I refused to take the vaccine, so I’m on a budget. This definitely fits my budget. Great deal when you add my 10% military discount.

Just looked at the Lowes add for that, pretty much looks like an MSU 500/700 that Hisun made for Massimo back then. Take a good look at the badging on parts to see who it's actually made by, my guess is it's still Hisun.