Travis

No rebuild kits for em. Disassembly and cleaning is the next step, if I ruin it there then my mind is made up for me.

I had the wheel cylinder soaking in evapo rust which i used on the other one several months ago, i took it out dried it off and took out the bleeder valve and filled it full with liquid wrench,

Wheel cylinder from Kawasaki is $130 shipped to dealer, or $90 if I orders it online.

Well one problem, the wheel cylinder is frozen. its been soaking for 24 hours with no improvement. on a plus i did get rust build up off the drum by soaking it in evapo rust, that stuff is good!

Hope it works out for you! What size did u order?

Any luck?

Got it off with a puller.👍

It's weird, with the drum fully seated it spins fine, but when i try pulling it off is when it binds up, so it may be like you said, Will that it's rusted, I'll try spraying some PB blaster on it and see if that works.

Having some trouble with the right side, axle nut is off, the drum will come out about 1/4 of the way and stops, i think the parking brake is still a little bit engaged and the pad is binding it, i might try unhooking the other end of the cable and pushing it to see if i can free it up.

Left side is all buttoned up, i engaged the parking brake, wheel held, i dis engaged the parking brake, the brake released like it was supposed too, now on to the other side!! here is the picture of the parking brake cable end that goes into the drum,the square bead on the cable goes on the back side of the hook in the lever. oh and for anyone else here's another torque spec, Axle Nut 110 ft lbs

its hard to reassemble because you have to put the brake cable on first, and then you have that 3ft long cable swinging around, and you cant hold the plate level, makes it hard, took me about 30 minutes.

left rear brake complete.

Filled the transmission with gear oil , no leaks (yet) in both places at the axle, where it mounts and where the seal is. brake parts are supposed to be in here soon. Im thinking about buying this https://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-MULE-500-520-550-ENGINE-SKID-PLATE-ROCK-GUARD-NOS-OEM-P-N-KAF500-012/262599946646?epid=1523585811&hash=item3d242d3196:g:xlwAAOSw-kdXxJ8i:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!77303!US!-1 Partshouse has it for $70, since the transmission case bottom is fully exposed... i think this price is cheaper than a rebuilt or new transmission, even though i pretty much know where everything is in the pasture im sure there will be "that one day..."

air is getting in the brake system somehow. I'd have the dealer check that all fittings or joints are screwed in tight at the master cylinder , wheel cylinders and any other joints.

Welcome !! look here for your model, either 4x4 or diesel, and winches and plows should be in the bottom left corner of the choices https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemcatalogs/f/kawasaki_side_x_side_2000/kawasaki_accessories

Parking brake cables and new brake hardware are supposed to be UPS delivered Tuesday. I had to order a new shock mount bolt because i wiped the threads out removing it. no easy way to remove those shocks that i know of.

Noticed his website is shut down. Hate to hear how many people got swindled by him.

2 things you can't do with out Brake parts cleaner and PB Blaster. Good eye, i didn't notice it. i rarely use the diff lock BUT the times i do use is when i really need it. Oh here's the kicker, you cant just by the cable, you have buy the entire handle or "assembly" $114.00 so it looks like a solvent bath it is, but that's just from online, might call the dealer sometime and see if they can help me find just the cable. of course im sure i might could hillbilly-rig a cable with those ends on if does break.... one thing i've learned rust is a very good adhesive. if only I could package it and sell it, $$. HaHa

Yep, they really tuck them things in right places.... I think most machines are built around the spark plug😆

okay, that is an NGK plug which is a very reputable brand they list the most common sizes as 5/8" 13/16 & 3/4" Im sure you have tried putting them on without your wratchet attached? Have you been checking with metric and Standard sockets. i know i have encountered some where 5/8 and 16 mm should fit, but only a 16MM would fit.

mounting bolts torqued to 18 ft lbs, and i have a nice bead of silicone showing around the outside edge. and axle bracket mounting bolts torqued to 25 ft lbs. just need the new brake springs and cable to come in!

and for anyone else doing this, it makes it ALOT easier if you take the bed off FYI. and these bolts get torqued to18 ft lbs. or 180 in lbs. and the axle mounting bolts to the FRAME right behind the drum get torqued to 25 ft lbs or 300 in lbs. AND LET THE GASKET MAKER SIT FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS BEFORE FILLING WITH GEAR OIL

Axle is installed! got the gasket maker squished out a little around the outside edges after snugging the bolts. Got to let it sit for 1 hour then torque to factory Spec. had a little trouble getting it in, since this side has the Diff lock contraption on it.See the gear on between the axle case and axle? and it has little "castle towers" as i call them on it similar to a Castle Nut, that interlock with the trans gear when diff is engaged, the mechanism has a lever on top of the case attached to a engagement cable, and inside the case is a little dowel pin that sticks down from the lever, (its hard too see but that gear has a machined "groove" in it that that dowel pin rides in) and when the cable is engaged it that dowel pin moves to the right and pushes that gear into something similar to a spider gear for lack of better word, and then rotates both wheels at the same RPM. amazing what you can learn by tearing into something.

Let's go install a axle

do you know the spark plug number?