Travis

This just got me thinking. My 550 has the same drive set up as yours. Start the Mule, and put it in Neutral, and rev the engine as you would speeding if you while driving, if there is no vibration, then more than likley it ISN'T the clutch. be cause it operates the same as when you're in gear. Did i make my point clear? i'm bad at transferring thoughts into typed words.

Boring only one cylinder over could only have adverse effects in say a Car or Truck engine, not a 2 cyl mule. A engine machinist,with enough experience should be able to tell a aluminum bore from cast iron.

Here are all the models that shaft assembly was used on. https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/partsearch/kawasaki?partsearch=39190-0005 swapping out the bushings sounds like a good idea

Get your cylinder took care of today?

Welcome to the forum! I'm not sure what could be causing it, but it could very well be the interior of the centrifugal is wore out. It is belt driven, correct? If you could post a video that would be very helpful.

You'll have to give the machinist the original standard spec so he can bore out what would be .020 over from the bore brand new. I'm sure you knew that, but I'd hate to see anything go wrong on an engine build.

Like it was never even there! That looks good,man!

Cylinder looks nice!!! Great job. Do you have the original standard cylinder specification?

Any updates @Mikey?

the choke should move accordingly to how much you choke it. Full choke, the air butterfly should be closed, 1/2 choke, about 1/2 way open.

http://www.cazadormotorsports.com/home.html Possibly this. although it looks like Cazador makes it easy to identify their Side by sides.

That logo on the steering wheel looks a lot like the Textron Logo.

Welcome to the forum! I wasn't sure which series HiSun you had, but you can find them on the left side of this Parts page. you might can find it here. https://alpha-sports.com/hisun_parts.htm?q=hisun-parts One thing i would think about before putting a new plug on, is what caused it to burn it out. Could be just a cheap part, or just time won the battle, or another electrical issue. a regular 6 pin would more than likely work, but im not sure if the wires are supposed to go a certain way or not.

Get this figured out?

Does it have a manual choke? is it working properly?

I did a flush as the manual stated back when i put the engine back in earlier this year since it sat for so long. But I'm sure doing it again would not hurt a thing at all.

All done. My parking brake engages and disengages PERFECTLY. Big thanks to Dennis at Pro Powersports Of Conroe getting all the parts i needed! Now what needs fixing next? lol

My Mule would out run that thing anyday.... 😏🤣

!!ALL DONE!! Just going to bleed the brakes and go for a test ride. Hope my battery stay charged, about time for a new one. its about 6+years old.

back from the dealer, gonna eat some lunch and start reassembling.

Headed to the dealership to pick up the part. HOPEFULLY i'll be driving by this evening. Or my other parking brake cable will be seized up by the time i get this one back on.. lol 😆

Pics of the Engine?

Another good thing to do will be to pull the valves out and lap them, gives them a new sealing surface and helps form a tight seal when closed. It's not 100% necessary, but on an engine that old it's will not hurt a thing in the world.

https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Service-Repair-Maintenance-2003-2008/dp/B00JDNDE4Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kawasaki+mule+service+manual+3000&qid=1564512687&s=gateway&sr=8-1 take a look at this, CD manual for your machine, i have one just like it except for the 550, it's not very in depth, but it is enough to get by with and make repairs. You might also check EBAY for a paper back service manual. They come in verrrrry handy.

Some times ignition components can cause it, carbon built up on plug, weak plug, or weak spark from the coil.