Travis

It could be sucking air from somewhere, or not getting good fuel flow enough to accelerate. Did you put new gaskets with the carb? I would also add be sure your choke is fully opening and closing.

Here is the coil ground wire. Unplug it right there. Black wire It's next to th oil fill cap

Toss some gas or spray some carb cleaner/starting fluid down the carb throat. spray it where the duct from the air filter goes to the carb. Then try to start it. if it does fuel is not making it to through the new carb. next take out the spark plug and spray some carb cleaner or pour a small amount of gas down the hole, put the plug back in. And turn it over. if none of these give any results lift the bed and unplug the coil ground wire, it's right behind the governor linkage. Then try to start it. if you want I can upload you some troubleshooting pages from my shop manual to look at. Next you might try to unhook the fuel line coming from the pump, to the carb, turn the engine over and gas should shoot out of the pump. one of the least likely options would be to pull the valve cover and be sure the valves are operating correctly/not out of time. thats a last last resort.

There is a member on here, Casey Ye , I think is their name... Or close to that. They sell Joyner parts.

Of you aren't concerned with looks, use some of that exhaust Heat wrap. I have never used it personally, but have heard it works very well.

I will add I have seen older Kubota utility vehicles for sale and running great with 2000 hours +, the Kubota will probably have more torque since most are diesel, so it could haul more, especially on hills. I don't know a lot about Polaris, but I do know they have the most recalls per 100 vehicles than Kawasaki,Kubota, others.

I wouldn't be comfortable buying one with 700+ hours, mainly since I don't know how regularly maintenance was performed. It really does boil down to how well it was taken care of. If you Are looking at a used unit from an individual look at the color of the oil, don't want it to be dark/grey.

My 550 has the same setup with the pump. that spring and ball is a relief valve. If the oil pressure gets too high it will shoot oil Back into the crankcase. And I'm 99% sure that it's a low oil cutoff, and most generally cut off ignition

It would make perfect sense that it would come standard as a safety feature. Houston and Conroe are growing like a wildfire. People crawling everywhere.

I've looked through all diagrams that show with and have to do with the dash, and didn't see anything. If you want, im going to the local Kawasaki dealership tomorrow to pick up some parts for my mule, if you want i can give the parts guy your mule model and year, and i'll print these pictures and show to him and maybe he can figure out something. **EDIT** I just found a picture of a dash on Mule 2500 and it looks like someone else added that afterwards. It might also be a option at original purchase. and also in the parts diagram, it shows this dash panel, and all the cutouts for the holes and SHIFT lever, but no cutout for where that light goes. You might have to change connectors behind it and wire in a little LED light or something.

where is it located? On the dash?

Not a lot of information out there for sub branded machines. All I can think of is Contact Cub Cadet

Click on the "Where Used" next to the ADD button.

This just got me thinking. My 550 has the same drive set up as yours. Start the Mule, and put it in Neutral, and rev the engine as you would speeding if you while driving, if there is no vibration, then more than likley it ISN'T the clutch. be cause it operates the same as when you're in gear. Did i make my point clear? i'm bad at transferring thoughts into typed words.

Boring only one cylinder over could only have adverse effects in say a Car or Truck engine, not a 2 cyl mule. A engine machinist,with enough experience should be able to tell a aluminum bore from cast iron.

Here are all the models that shaft assembly was used on. https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/partsearch/kawasaki?partsearch=39190-0005 swapping out the bushings sounds like a good idea

Get your cylinder took care of today?

Welcome to the forum! I'm not sure what could be causing it, but it could very well be the interior of the centrifugal is wore out. It is belt driven, correct? If you could post a video that would be very helpful.

You'll have to give the machinist the original standard spec so he can bore out what would be .020 over from the bore brand new. I'm sure you knew that, but I'd hate to see anything go wrong on an engine build.

Like it was never even there! That looks good,man!

Cylinder looks nice!!! Great job. Do you have the original standard cylinder specification?

Any updates @Mikey?

the choke should move accordingly to how much you choke it. Full choke, the air butterfly should be closed, 1/2 choke, about 1/2 way open.

http://www.cazadormotorsports.com/home.html Possibly this. although it looks like Cazador makes it easy to identify their Side by sides.

That logo on the steering wheel looks a lot like the Textron Logo.