Travis

Another thing i would recommend for at least the first oil fill, use the correct weight, probably 10w40 for yours, not sure. but use the Kawasaki K-TECH oil, it has higher levels of Zinc (zddp) and phosphorus and other anti wear additives which have been almost erased from modern automotive oils because of the E.P.A, which is not good for small engines with flat tappets. If not buy a zddp additive.

Look up Powersportsnation.com, they have literally thousands of used it parts. So their is a good chance they might have one or two.

Wednesday is the arrival time for the wheel cylinder at the dealer.

And you definitely want a bottle of Permatex assembly lube, a good torque wrench,shop rags, and several cans of brake parts cleaner. You want those cylinders SQUEAKY clean after honing. And another thing is check for up and down play on the Rod small end and wrist pin. Side to side is okay .

I use the 3 stone hone, but the dingleberry hone as I call it provides a better crosshatch pattern, the stone hone seems to leave a coarser finish. It mostly comes down to what you want to pay for one. And try to get your rod bearing clearance spec and check with plasti gauge. Videos all over youtube how. And definitely order new rod bolts, don't want to skip on the bolts that literally hold the insides together. When you do hone have the internals of the block all out, don't need dirty homing residue anywhere. It's like sandpaper.

almost 1 year update, already ripped at a seam. Wouldnt say it's worth it.

There is only special surface treatment on Aluminium bore engines (such as Nikasil), not Cast iron sleeves. You can hone the heck out of a iron bore engine. If you put new rings on the slick wore surface you will have a very hard time to the new ones to seal ., timing marks are correct. you should be able too get specs you need by calling or e mailing Kawasaki with your Mule or Engine model.

Post some pictures of the cylinders, how do they look? it's possible you might could squeeze by with new standard rings and a hone job. I used your location and i believe this machine shop is in your area, they seem pretty good. https://www.facebook.com/donsautoparts it would be best to have a professional measure the cylinders to determine wear on them.

What parts do you need? What brand of side by side do you have?

Welcome! 245 pounds??? Thats odd, is this a FD620 engine? The spec is 170 psi. For that engine. You can also find rebuild kits with oversize pistons for around $250

Any progress!

My Mule is 18 years old. No problems I can't fix so far, and has caused no problems, and most fixed have been easy on the wallet. Kawasaki has built a good reputation and a3 year warranty is hard to beat. The Kawasaki.com HQ has always been able to help me and give me information that I need. Plus you can find accessories virtually anywhere for them. look up ATVillustrated .com , they did a review on that model recently.

No rebuild kits for em. Disassembly and cleaning is the next step, if I ruin it there then my mind is made up for me.

I had the wheel cylinder soaking in evapo rust which i used on the other one several months ago, i took it out dried it off and took out the bleeder valve and filled it full with liquid wrench,

Wheel cylinder from Kawasaki is $130 shipped to dealer, or $90 if I orders it online.

Well one problem, the wheel cylinder is frozen. its been soaking for 24 hours with no improvement. on a plus i did get rust build up off the drum by soaking it in evapo rust, that stuff is good!

Hope it works out for you! What size did u order?

Any luck?

Got it off with a puller.👍

It's weird, with the drum fully seated it spins fine, but when i try pulling it off is when it binds up, so it may be like you said, Will that it's rusted, I'll try spraying some PB blaster on it and see if that works.

Having some trouble with the right side, axle nut is off, the drum will come out about 1/4 of the way and stops, i think the parking brake is still a little bit engaged and the pad is binding it, i might try unhooking the other end of the cable and pushing it to see if i can free it up.

Left side is all buttoned up, i engaged the parking brake, wheel held, i dis engaged the parking brake, the brake released like it was supposed too, now on to the other side!! here is the picture of the parking brake cable end that goes into the drum,the square bead on the cable goes on the back side of the hook in the lever. oh and for anyone else here's another torque spec, Axle Nut 110 ft lbs

its hard to reassemble because you have to put the brake cable on first, and then you have that 3ft long cable swinging around, and you cant hold the plate level, makes it hard, took me about 30 minutes.

left rear brake complete.

Filled the transmission with gear oil , no leaks (yet) in both places at the axle, where it mounts and where the seal is. brake parts are supposed to be in here soon. Im thinking about buying this https://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-MULE-500-520-550-ENGINE-SKID-PLATE-ROCK-GUARD-NOS-OEM-P-N-KAF500-012/262599946646?epid=1523585811&hash=item3d242d3196:g:xlwAAOSw-kdXxJ8i:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!77303!US!-1 Partshouse has it for $70, since the transmission case bottom is fully exposed... i think this price is cheaper than a rebuilt or new transmission, even though i pretty much know where everything is in the pasture im sure there will be "that one day..."