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I just purchased a new sheave and the sliders come from the factory with flat spots. My question is the same my weights had white dots on the small flat side, Are those to be facing up as you look at the sheave?

Three times now our Tracker SXS EViS has been driven off with it plugged up charging. This last time ripped the charger off the wall and now it won't charge. Is there a way to test my charger to see if it's what's not working? I think the wires inside the sxs may have been pulled loose too so it might be the sxs that's not charging rather than the charger not working. And is there a charging alternative to ordering a $500+ new charger?

I fixed it -- evidentley when I checked the oil one of the times, I unplugged a green wire -- changed the oil today, noticed the unplugged wire, and now the issue is resolved...

Gotcha, well keep us updated when the new coil shows up

#6 Coil showed .5 and 6.98, so it seems to be bad. Concerning step 8 I could not find any connections wrong. Also, I tried a continuity test on the plug wire and there wasn't any. I found a coil and wire on Ebay for 30 bucks. At Coleman Powersports they were around 100 dollars.

My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears?

I forgot to mention that when the sound starts (as if the gears are skipping, or something like that, it's really loud) and when that sound starts I have to brake in place and then the sound disappears and when I start again everything is normal, it happens when I drive in H, it seems that the sound is coming from between the rear differential and the gear shifter, but I'm not sure. Sometimes it is not heard for a long time, I can drive for a couple of hours and it is not heard and then suddenly that terrible sound appears.

Ok next up step is #6 on the instruction pictures I posted above: Checking the ignition coil. The ignition coil you can find by following the spark plug lead. Test primnary and secondary as directed in the picture above step #6. As far as step 8: Contrary to the manual I don't believe there's a magneto coil on these EFI units, the ignition coil is driven directly by the ECU. This step should be something like "verify crankshaft position sensor" but thats going to require an oscilloscope or HUD Ecu hacker & Cables & a PC. You can at least verify that the sensor is plugged in correctly. Plug is the wires coming out of the passenger side of the crankcase. Should be a 4 pin square plug (IE 2x2) Let me know what you find and we can continue from there

Hello friends, I got my ODES Ravager UTV yesterday and after a couple of hours of driving when I go downhill I heard a strange loud noise a couple of times, like a gear skipping or maybe something from the differential. It doesn't always happen and when it does it is heard for a few seconds and then it goes away and everything works normally, I'm worried if there could be some major malfunction or what could be the problem if someone can help me? Thanks a lot.

welcome!

For some reason it will not work in Acrobat, try opening it with firefox or a browser like whitelightning stated

Try opening with a browser. I know Firefox usually works well for me

I downloaded the pdf file and then opened the file using pdf reader. The opened file says the dimensions of this page are out of range and content may be truncated. The display shows only a portion of each page. Changing the scale using the zoom feature only changes the size of the window, the content remains truncated and unusable. Any thoughts?

No, still no spark after replacing the fuse, sorry.

F1 fuse is a 5 amp and controls the ECU/dash display which would mean no spark. Dies it start (or at least have spark) with the f1 fuse replaced?

I highly recommend a test ride.. even if you have to go70 mi .. I m 70 yrs old and rode ATVs since a kid so I speak from experience.I too have 1 Honda thats 25 yrs old and still runs. But I was genuinely impressed with CF MOTO. And no, I dont work for them.. We have had zero issues with ours and I do not baby them!

Hy (pronounce he), just bought a Hisun Sector E1. I'll be using it to haul logs and stuff in the Sangre de Cristo mountains.

I find your post very interesting. I just took a quick look and they do look like nice machines, but I don't have a dealer within 70 miles that I see. Your post makes me want me to take a closer look. If I were to be shopping for a machine, I'd make an effort to consider the CFMOTO. My Honda Foreman ATV is about 24 years old, and it could have a premature serious problem, but so far it keeps on plowing snow and hauling firewood. LOL

I will do that. Can you please advise what makes the difference between the flooded lead acid battery and the AGM battery? Like, if the 2 batteries are both rated at 350 CCAs, does the AGM battery actually turn the engine over better than the flooded lead acid battery? Not doubting you, just would like to learn more about the kinds of batteries. Thanks

I have owned many Hondas over the last 40 yrs.. All were absolutely bulletproof machines.. but I must say I bought a CF MOTO ATV 1 1/2 yrs ago because there were no Hondas available anywhere.. and it is fabulous.. 2 yr warrantee, dealers everywhere if I need one.. But so far, oil change is all its needed.. and it smokes my Hondas. My wife loves the automatic CVT trans and power steering and smooth IRS ...

Simple check before you dig into the switch is to look at the winch motor terminals to see if the +/- cables match the motor markings.

My advice is to get rid of that battery right now. Don't care how old it is or isn't. You are not getting the cranking amperage needed and are not doing the starter, keyswitch or starter drive any favors. Don't get another N-Everstart regular battery. SLA-AGM (Sealed Lead-Acid, Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries are the only way to go, unless you want to pay an exorbitant amount for a gel cell unit. Consign your existing battery to the lawnmower where it belongs. Also, beware of some of the AGM battery ratings as the Chinese manufacturers tend to be "overly optimistic". Interstate make a decent one if you want to shop locally. The above is assuming that the battery terminals and grounding bolts are clean, bright, and not frayed. Check this FIRST! 🏁

It occurred to me today. My buddy's buggy came without a fuse box, so we had to order one, but it's not yet installed on his, so I took the cover off the new box and found I was mistaken. The bad fuse was a 5A marked F1. I bought a pack of assorted fuses, so I have a new one now. Although the F4 fuse was ok I listened for the fuel pump sound today, but the wind is blowing and I'm hard of hearing, so I couldn't detect the sound.

Usually I will have to hit the key a few times to get it to turn over. The battery is only a year old. Maybe it needs a recharge? I used the UTV yesterday to clean up a bunch of branches and downed trees. It was idling most of the time, but it didn't stall or overheat. Ran like a champ. Used the winch several times, too. On the topic of the winch, the switch reads "in" but it's pushing the steel rope out. Did they wire it wrong? I wonder if I could just reverse the wires on the switch.