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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

White smoke is usually coolant leaking into the cylinder. Sounds like a blown head gasket to me.

Just wanted to give update . It was the ecm. Put new one on and got spark immediately to front cylinder. Ran but smoking and no power. I checked back cylinder and no fire. Pulled coil to check with meter and found wire was not getting good connection where it plugs into coil. All good now . She will scream !!!. Next is to figure out why 4x4 switch wont turn. Thanks for all the imput....

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

I have come to the conclusion @Joe Toup must be one of the very best, most helpful members here!!! He has been tireless sharing his knowledge and expertise helping me solve a problem. I am sure I'm near a good solution thanks to Joe!!👍👍👍

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake. I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released. If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

anybody else getting spam /fraud private messages on here besides me? How do I report it? He calls himself Maria .under ORANGE 15 name.. wants to hook up in UTVs .. con artist in Pakistan probably.. Cant ADMIN block this crap ? geesh

Just looked at the Lowes add for that, pretty much looks like an MSU 500/700 that Hisun made for Massimo back then. Take a good look at the badging on parts to see who it's actually made by, my guess is it's still Hisun.

Its my 2nd day on this plat form. I'm new here in this community but in these two days I got some Premium recommendations. I was in search of these recommendations form the past few months. Thanks you so much for creating such kind of the community. Regards: Zeeshan Mehmood

Put 15 miles on it today mostly on the beach in 4WD--the front diiferential is definitely smoother and quieter, and engaging/disengaging 4WD and front lock more positively with the ATF...

So how can i fix my UTV? " we'll circle back"

For a 16 digit PIN/VIN, the 9th number indicates the year. Hence, in this case, the OP's RTV is a 2006. Which is the same year as y RTV:

Waiting for snow.....

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

Hello Everyone Brand new Joyner CV AXLES are waiting to be unloaded at LA port and then be sent to warehouses in Charleston, TN , BALTIMORE, MD and Groveport, OH. Estimate they will be available for shipments to end customers in about 2-3 weeks. These CV AXLES are ordered in February this year and now it is middle July. Very long time to get these parts. Qty for each model is not big. Detail as below: S/N Part No. Description Charleston, TN BALTIMORE, MD Groveport, OH Total 1 D650.03.02.02.00 650 Sand Spider Rear left 3 2 3 8 2 S650.03.02.02.00 650 Commando Rear 7 6 10 23 3 TR1100.03.01.03.00 TR1100 Front 3 3 4 10 4 D650.03.02.03.00 650 Sand Spider Rear Right 3 2 4 9 5 S800.03.02.02.00-R2 800 R2/4 Rear Shaft 4 4 6 14 6 TR1100.03.02.03.00 TR1100 Rear 6 5 9 20 7 S650.03.01.02.00 650 Commando Front Left 3 3 4 10 8 S650.03.01.03.00 650 Commando Front Right 3 3 4 10 Below items are also available. These items can be shipped in days CAGE: 1. 800 Renegade R2/R4 Front outer cage --- 5 pieces 2. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear Left outer cage --- 5 pieces 3. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear left inner cage --- 3 pieces CV BOOT: 1. 650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front /650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right / OUT CAGE 2 pieces 2. 650 Commando Rear OUT CAGE 1 pieces 3 Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear OUT CAGE 2 pieces 4 650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front INNER CAGE 1 pieces 5 650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right INNER CAGE 1 pieces 6 650 Commando Rear INNER CAGE 1 pieces 7 Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear OUT CAGE INNER CAGE 2 pieces Anyone who need above items please contact me at [email protected]. Thanks. Other Joyner items needed, you can also contact me and I will try to help. Have good day Casey / Leaf Asia 2021-07-20

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Hey now, that ain't right 🥴

after all the complaints on this forum about the other brands of utv's, i will stick with my mule...........not the fastest, not the most powerful, but it hauls stuff around the house and plows snow just fine..........

Thanks but think I found the critter , the cam pressure relief spring had broken had to remove the head again to make sure nothing got crushed , but found everything installed new spring put back together , but made sure that the timing marks were where they were supposed to be , adjusted valve springs and it started right up, ran for a few seconds and I believe some garbage got into the fuel system , but thats for tomorrow problem solving !! ROFL thank's for sharing

The real problem, as I see it, is that the codes given are consistent with an engine that's running poorly. So imho, if it's not running with a substantial miss, then something else is going on. Like a possible failure of the CPU. Manufacturers are typically reluctant to give away parts without a reliable, trusted diagnosis of failure, such as that provided by an authorized service center. And a new CPU could be quite expensive, with no guarantee that'll cure the problem. Throwing parts at it is never a good plan anyway. Fixing it yourself, could be a long, expensive, frustrating endeavor. Complete with long down times, and fairly involved diagnostic procedures. If it were me, I'd try to make it Lowe's problem. By any means necessary, including a return.

I was under the rig playing today so I decided to adjust the parking brake just to make sure it was ok, since I've read a couple people having them adjusted too tight from the factory. First picture is the parking brake disc & caliper from the passenger side. Second picture is the adjustment bolt. How it works: it's a cable operated disc brake with a locking pawl to hold it where you push the pedal to. Procedure: The pad tightness is adjusted by moving the bolt in the 2nd picture in and out. When you tighten it it pushes the pads together. The extra nut on it is a lock nut. Using a 13mm wrench loosen the lock nut. Back it off about halfway just so it's out of the way. Next tighten the bolt by hand until it stops. From there back it off about a half turn. Push the parking brake and make sure the pedal "locks up" before running out of travel. If it doesn't adjust the bolt slightly tighter and try it again. Once you're happy with the adjustment tighten the lock nut while keeping the bolt stationary.

Yep, much better for hauling stands and everything else. Although it's a little harder to load a big buck in the dump bed than it was to drag one across the atv. I picked up a chain-on hoist after last season! https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Solutions-VS-VHK001-Game-Processing/dp/B00KTMXNTY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1YOHK2JY2Q450&keywords=hoist+game&qid=1652957591&sprefix=hoist+game%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6

I live in a community that has mechanics of all flavors from small gas engines to let's take apart a semi and put it back together. None of them will run gasoline with ethanol in their small gas engines, octane doesn't seem to be the issue, the ethanol gunking up carburetors and fuel injectors is the issue.

Hydrogen combustion and Hydrogen Fuel Cells are the only "green" solutions that makes sense. Too bad finding fueling stations still isn't anywhere close to where we need to be.

Are you using the right oil for a wet clutch?

https://www.501parts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/2004-2007-Rhino-660-Manual.pdf

I thought it would be something like, that since you're here asking questions about something that definitely should be warranty work. Have you checked for trouble codes yet? Strange blinking on the dashboard clock? Anything like that? Due to the nature of your problem, there's probably not a code thrown. But sometimes you get lucky. And at any rate, that's the best place to start.

I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit! Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches. Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk. That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable. There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut. Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.

Sounds like the machine thinks it's low on oil. Since it must still be under warranty, I'd let the dealership sort it out.

None, nor electric cars. It is an industry in it's infancy that needs time to mature. Electricity is not an energy source it needs to be generated from energy sources--currently in the civilized world a modestly inefficient process to create AC current, we then carry it, with losses, over power lines to it's application where in the case of electric vehicles we convert it to DC--with losses-to charge batteries to convert that stored energy to motive force (with losses) Direct conversion of an energy source (gasoline) to motive force is modestly inefficient but still in the overall more efficient than all the conversion and transmission loses. In any valid "Well to Wheels" analysis, modern ICE's win every time...

To get the heat shield call Grenada Bad Boys and ask for Mike JR in service. Number is 662-307-2729. A couple positive things about it is they are a Tracker Dealer and they actually use their machines. See item is that the heat shield is hinged to allow you to open it up in the winter when you want that heat hitting your firewall.

That is just normal operation and the same with cars and trucks! But the issue is with these the firewalls are not insulated!!! so we feel it

Hi, I’m new to the group and just thought I would share a few photos and introduce myself. Bryan

That looks like it might work, I was mislead by an eBay listing to believe the thread was 3/4-10--however I just measured the good filter I have--it is indeed M20 x 1.5. I corrected the dimensioned photo posted above...

Here's a couple shots of mine--I had to "re-brand" it as an LSV (Low Speed Vehicle) to make the State of Florida happy (they had to do a physical inspection, I figured it would not hurt to badge it as an LSV) and get it registered: (made it into an "Outfitter LSV" with 3D printed badges--just used that gray 3M double-sided tape to stick the low-speed placard on; we had just been calling it "the thing"--"Thing 1" was what my great-granddaughter thought it should be called. I thought "Thing 16" as it's a "4x4", but my wife said no one would "get" it... I have a thread re: the Briggs muffler/cheap noise reducer--works great with the end-cap perforations opened up to 5/32" (from 1/8" OEM, a 56% increase). Took it off a few days ago, just made it louder--no power change at any RPM--put it back on to make myself less obtrusive... The flag decal is the "Bonnie Blue Flag"; of the Republic of West Florida and an early flag of the secessionist States during the War of Northern Aggression.

I have been meaning to write this up for some time. As delivered (in late October 2020) my 2020 UT400 had the expected number of loose "final assembly" nuts and bolts, but even after tightening down everything it still had an annoying metal-on-metal rattle--one f those that was quite audible but difficult to locate. it sounded like some chassis or suspension component but I could not pin it down. So, I took to carrying a large rubber mallet with me and stopping and banging on things when it really got to me. Eventually I tracked it down to the rear uprights for the roll cage moving about on their mounting posts. The left and right rear cage posts slip onto forged steel hubs welded to the frame and were cross-bolted with some very pretty 10 mm dia. binding post type fasteners having an 8 mm threaded internal shank (the Service Manual says they should be torqued to 48 lbf·ft but when I tried all I got was a violent and quite loud "pop" as the head ripped off the female end): Examine the torn apart section and it's obvious why it could not handle 48 lbf·ft. Here's how it mounts, from the service manual; So, I replaced both binding bolts (pretty but not up to the task) with a plain ol' 10 x 1.25 x 50 mm class 10.9 bolts and self-locking nuts; and had at torquing it again--no problems, the cage upright squeezed up tight on the forged post and the rattle was gone making me a "happy 'UTVer'"...

Going to pick my new Mule Pro FXT Camo tomorrow. Central Fl. First UTV ive owned but have had several 4 wheelers over the years.

Hey everyone, new to the forum, just picked up a coleman 400 from tractor supply this week, and of course it was missing a couple small plastic parts. Being as I have a handy 3d printer laying around, I just made new ones. In the downloads portion of this site under the coleman section I uploaded files to print new circular caps for the tie-down holes at the front of the bed, a new cap for the end of the frame near the hitch, and a dummy clip for the seat belts. Disclaimer, always wear your seat belt while riding. That being said feel free to download and print! Check your local library for a printer if you don't have one, or there are online printing services available.

$110 each from AlphaSports--a bit better... Amazon has a number of less expensive options if you feel creative...

Sounds like the P.O. was a textbook example of what we used to call "Fast & Furious Magazine Mechanics"(FnFMM)--more money than engineering, or even common, sense. Bigger wheels an d tires do nothing but: Reduce power to the ground due to their larger diameter; Reduce braking power due to 1); Reduce acceleration due to 1) and increased weight = increased rotational inertia; Increase wear of drive train components (CV-joints, U-joints, transmission and final drive gears and bearing, etc) due to 3);. Worsen "ride" quality due to increased unsprung weight; Overload suspension components (spring struts, A-arms, ball joints, tie-rod ends, steering gear, etc.) due to increased mass/altered geometry; Mess up the speedometer and odometer¹ by making them "read" slow; Huh, seven sins--I really did not set out to do that. But they "look cool" and will make your fellow FnFMMs envious--all while making your wallet lighter, We have already seen (literally) what a "lift kit" can accomplish so I won;t get into that... Contrary to what the average FnFMM thinks, the emgineers that design these things do generally know what the are doing,,, ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ¹ - the odometer thing mat be "good" if you are planning on screwing over a buyer down the road (no pun intended). Let's suppose you put 27" tires on a vehicle designed for 25" tires--that's an 8% increase in circumference. So, the 5,000 miles you put on the vehicle will be recorded as only 4630 miles.

Actually you can, the real differences between GL-4 and GL-5 are nearly negligible. GL-5 is claimed to handle shock loading better than GL-4; and be slightly more "slippery" making the EPA happy.. If I had an axle with dirty oil that really needed to be changed, and had nothing but a bottle of GL-4 on the shelf, I use it and not lose a moment's sleep...

Machine sat and had multiple rodent chews thru out the wiring that we fixed. Also replaced the Following: ECU, Coil and Plug Wire, small Control Box that contains fuses and relays. Pick Up coil test at 219 ohms which is typically good on most machines but i can't find the specific manual on this thing to get the spec. Battery good, cranks fine but the fuel pump doesn't prime or run and no spark. Tested pump with direct 12volts and it works. If we supply a ground to the pump it primes and works but still no spark. We have traced all wiring including grounding and all is good. Tested key switch. I has (4) positions. 1 - off, 2 - does nothing, 3 - powers up everything (lighting and odometer and powers ECU, 4 - starts engine. The key switch only has 3 wires. 12v in from battery and 2 - 12v out which is power to the system and send 12v to starter relay coil. Are these electrical systems actually switching the grounds on and off vs the traditional switching the 12v+ on and off. at my wits end with this thing. Also when we figure this problem out we will post the solution. seems 90% of people that ask for help on these forums, never post the fix which make this pointless.

I am lookin for recommendations. I would like to put a winch on my 2019 Honda Pioneer 1000-5. I have been looking at the Warn Axon 55s but would entertain any feedback from people regarding this or other winches.

I had finished the Bulldog restoration quite a while ago... Finally getting around to posting photos....