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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Since it's designed to go thru mud and water, I can't see how you can hurt it .Just don't spray into the air filter box.I pressure was my UTV and Atvs after each use to prevent corrosion

Hi Space Ghost and welcome. I'm one of the originals here but don't post much these days. After reading your posts I feel obliged to reach out to you. Firstly thanks for your service and the sacrifices you've made. We are a Powersports Dealer and can and will give you at least a 10% discount on parts and accessories you may need. Contact other Powersports dealers and they will help you too. You deserve to get the best deals going. Contact me at any time and just mention UTV Board. Thanks, Mike.

My Service dog Bärli on the left with his battle buddy Louie on the right.

Welcome Space Ghost, I too just upgraded from a quad ATV to a full cab UTV. For many of the same reasons as you. My service-connected disabilities make it very difficult to ride and be out in the elements anymore. The new UTV is making riding still possible. Thank you for your service!

Not sure if this would be an option for your 550: I'm using a 72" KFI plow on my Hisun Sector 750 - works well. Driveway is 350'+ x 12'. One pass down the middle and then one on either side. (photo is UTV with plow at the dealer's - was delivered that way). Note - need to manually adjust plow angle.

if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

I was reading through an old thread about the woes of the risky ownership of Hisun UTVs. Well, OK. So we all own some problematic machines. But I’ll say this. I’ve owned bicycles, automobiles, snowmobiles, PWCs, boats motorcycles, class 8 trucks, airplanes and a crapload of heavy equipment. Nothing I’ve owned and operated hasn’t broken or needed maintenance. The difference between all those prior items and my Hisun, I feel, is the support (or lack of)from the factory and dealership. That’s where this and other forums come in. We’re all we have! Well, us and YouTube. Oddly enough though, with help I’ve received from YouTube and you guys,I’m actually starting to enjoy crawling through this machine, and screw the factory/dealer. I’ll make this vehicle what they didn’t. And have fun doing it.

I thank you PB

Did you take a look at the parts diagram?...https://alpha-sports.com/massimo_parts.htm?q=massimo-parts I suppose there may be a unique situation that only a 1 off bolt or screw may work, but everything I see on the parts diagrams are standard metric bolts. They are after all trying to minimize costs, and creating unique hardware hardly seems productive.

Hisun Sector E1 Discovery to Lithium Conversion. So I went ahead and did the conversion using the LiTime 4-pack 48V 30Ah GC2 which I ordered on Amazon Prime Day for $1840 ($460/battery). Also bought the LiTime 58.4V 18A ($200) Lithium Battery Charge and “Superboni” 7pc set #2 Awg HD Golf Cart Battery Club Car 48 Wire Kit ($56). I utilized the LiTime charger to activate the Bluetooth and charge each battery to full. Then, connected them all in parallel and allowed them to balance both internal cells of each battery and between batteries which took several hours. Removed all the old Discovery batteries which as stated before requires the removal of the front panel under the seating and is much easier if you disconnect the piston allowing the rear bed to open fully. Placed the 4 new batteries in the most interior positions and had to utilize the braces from the exterior positions because the H-brace from the interior positions overlapped the battery terminals on the new batteries. Be sure to position the batteries so the original connections can reach which for me was positioning the negative terminal on both posterior batteries towards the rear. I connected the batteries in parallel for balanced but not perfectly balanced charging/discharge because it would require connections crossing over the controller sitting between the left and right battery positions. Basically, the connections followed a “U” pattern around the controller. I used this webpage to help wire the batteries: https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Iota_balanced_charging.pdf I reprogrammed the Delta-Q charger to profile #233 charging to 56V as previously mentioned by Jaime since I read it is not recommended to utilize the max charge voltage which would have been profile #386 charging to 58.4V. https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/14188856858893-Choosing-an-Algorithm-for-a-Lithium-Battery How to upload new profiles: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622531-IC-Series-How-to-reprogram-reflash-or-upgrade-software-and-algorithms-via-USB How to change charger profile: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016475772-Changing-Algorithms-on-IC-Series-Chargers Download profiles here: https://support.delta-q.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015622311-Download-Algorithms-for-IC-Series-Chargers Put everything back together and took it for a test run. Everything appeared to function properly and certainly has more power. I am using the battery Bluetooth with the LiTime App to monitor the batteries individually and the App has a feature that allows you to monitor all 4 batteries as a system. I was able to see that the batteries did charge on the Delta Q charger as well. It’s been less than a week, so I will update if anything changes, but overall for less than $2100 + tax/shipping(free since I have Amazon Prime), I’m very happy with the conversion. Hope this helps anyone else thinking of making the leap to Lithium.

there was a time I could say my HAIR would protect my head... not any more

Stay away from Chinese UTVs.Service is non existant.They don't honor warranty. I personally like HONDA for their durability .

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

Most of us complain about the ridiculous noise in the cabin. My wife likes to ride but the noise is a major downer. You can’t even have a conversation without shouting at each other. Well, I manage to reduce the cabin noise by approx 200%! I addressed the intake that is poorly placed right between the driver and passenger. First, I cut the air filter inlet pipe in half (pic 1). I then reinstalled it upside down (pic 2). I then attached a flexible intake tube (pic 3) and directed it behind the cabin (pic 4). Major difference. Then I covered the interior engine cover with Dynamat extreme and then 200 mil Chaogang sound deadener / heat shield mat on top of that (pic 5). Since I cut off the intake and redirected it, I completely closed off the intake (engine fence) so no engine noise can come thru (pic 6). It also reduced the heat approx 50%. I did leave on the heat mat that came stock on the engine cover, so it has 3 different mats. It was a snug fit. Major difference again. My wife rides all the time now since we can have a conversation when we ride. Major improvement to my riding experience. Thought you might like to check it out.

2023 Maverick X3 X MR Turbo RR Thoughts on this one? Maverick X3 X MR Turbo RR 64 top features Snorkeled engine air intake and CVT 30 in. ITP Cryptid tires Front bumper, half-doors 4,500 lb (2,041kg) winch with synthetic rope

good point, perfect is hard to find in anything, especially UTV's.

I haven't had any service done there, just bought some parts for my Hisun 400 "Menard's Special." Rural King in Circleville, OH. I imagine that if they have parts any RK would.

Hi i'm jakub and i making DIY UTV. Some questions?

As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere? Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11) Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest) My vehicle is (at least not yet) not a UTV, however, it is an ATV, A 2001 Kawasaki Prairie 400. BTW, That's Brandy, my former PTS/TBI service dog on the bike. RIP old girl. She's internet famous. Perhaps you've seen her before... The reason I'm here is that Arthritis is starting to set into my wounds and my mobility is getting worse. I will be selling the quad bike soon, and going with a SXS, and have selected a Can Am model as the replacement, so I figured I had better get on board a forum somewhere. Just put in for my Guard retirement, and will be very soon looking to get into a Commander 6x6. Wouldn't mind having the Limited with the Hvac system, but am really not sure it's worth the extra 10 grand or not. Plus it's 500 pounds heavier, and I prefer the doors off in nice weather. It's so much easier when working in the yard, and so much more fun when on the trail. Anyway, I'm here now, so it will help me research more and make up my mind. Plus once I have it, I'll be able to share stories about it and of course, continue to learn more, as it will be my 1st sxs. Still have time before I get my retirement. Takes a good 90 days at least according to the guy I talked to... Typical government efficiency... lol.

Yep and I bought it for $3000. You will notice that I added a bunch of crash bars on the front, that is cuz I ripped all the fenders of crashing through brush. I made my own fenders out of 3/16 polycarbonate, fit to the frame and no more problems.

Warmed up relatively speaking here in mid Michigan. 16 F this morning, and with the increased temps comes the almost constant light snow. A little over 3 inches overnight with light snow continuing unabated. Will plow again mid morning, and likely again late afternoon. Not a big job but has to be done on a hillside drive facing NE. Otherwise it just becomes a sheet of packed ice.

I bought a new Hisun Sector 750 in Jan. 2021 mainly due to price and features. I also bought a plow with it to clear snow from my 350' driveway during the 2021 winter since we couldn't go south due to covid. Like Alien10 I use it primarily to haul firewood on our 75ac property and although licensed and insured I rarely take it out on the public roads. I don't abuse it but don't baby it either. I've used the winch a lot to haul large logs out of the bush to where I can easily cut them up and haul the pieces back to my wood pile. Other than the first winter, it's stored in an uninsulated shed in the winter - only storage prep is to add and circulate sufficient fuel stabilizer. I've left the battery in and cables attached - so far it has fired right up in the spring. I have about 75 hours on the clock. As for maintenance, other than oil changes, I've been fortunate - just an issue with steering last spring when it would suddenly jerk to the left while driving in a straight line. It was an intermittent and baffling problem. Also fortunately I found a sales/repair shop 10 miles from me that also handles Hisun and they were able to solve the problem. All in all, I've had a positive experience with my UTV and it's doing what I need it to do. YMMV

There is nothing convenient easy, or reliable about anything named Hisun..in my experience they are cheaply built, poorly assembled, unreliable, and not backed by any thing resembling warranty or customer service Had someone warned me before buying mine new at Tractor Supply, I would have bought the Honda or CF MOTO

Congrats!!!!

My money is on the carb needle/seat

I might be misinterpreting the compression test results you've posted. Wouldn't be the first thing I've screwed up this morning! But, most if not all compression testers have a one way valve. That is to record the highest compression pressures it sees during the test. It will leave the gauge at that highest level, even it there is no compression left in the engine's cylinder after it stops cranking, until the release valve is pushed to release it back to zero. I'm thinking that your 130 and 125 pressure readings, after being left for 15 to 20 minutes are just the pressure captured and retained by the gauge and hose? Reason is I've never seen an engine cylinder that will retain 125 lbs of compression more than a dozen seconds as those peak pressures bleed down fairly rapidly through the rings. Those are by no means anywhere near a perfect seal. Your last results would seem to show a bubble was left in the system that you have now released. Great detective work! Maybe its time to just run the machine as you normally would paying attention to the temperature, coolant level and its appearance, and of course importantly, the oil level and its appearance. If you have a head gasket issue, it will soon show up in the coolant or oil being compromised.

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

This was the solution

So I took the leap and did the LiPo4 conversion. I purchased 2 Ogrphy 48v 100ah off Amazon when they were on sale @ $789 ea. All I can say is WOW, the difference is amazing. First is the obvious weight difference. Two 88lb batts vs 8 discover batteries which I think are 65lb each. It actually feels like I have power steering there is so much less weight on the front end. Second is the performance. With the old Discover ones I could only drive around in M at speeds from 5-10 mph for 14 miles before the low voltage code started flashing. One time I wasn't sure I was going to make it back to the house before it shut down. I just got back from a test drive. Both batts were at 95%. I traveled almost 20 miles in H range at or near top speed the entire trip. After arriving home one battery was at 63% and the other 68% so I roughly used 30% although the mfg. recommends not taking them below 20% for longevity. The torque it has now is almost too much. If your driving along at 15 or 20 mph. and you hit a bump, just a little extra pressure on the pedal will snap your head back. It held speed going up modest hills which even when new the vehicle wouldn't do. The battery management system is really great as well. Bluetooth connectivity to your phone. You can monitor each battery for voltage, amperage, temp, and wattage consumed. You can switch either battery on and off even while under motion. It actually drives a little smoother with only one battery on because the torque is a little lower. The BMS has overcharge prevention as well as low temp cutoff to prevent damage. You can also switch batteries on and off while charging. I'm not sure why one battery is being used a little more over the other. I just figure it's slight differences in internal resistances. I may contact the mfg about it at some point and see what they say. Everything worked just the same as with the old dry cells, even the temp. gauge on the dash. I'm not sure exactly were the sensor is so I was surprised when it started ticking up. The dash voltmeter is an unknown what it will show when I get near full discharge, but I suspect due to the nature of Lithium batteries, it will just stay on full until until near the end then drop quickly. My only issue is with the Delta-Q charger. I changed the charge algorithm to 386 which was the closest to what the mfg recommended (57.6 +- .8v) When the batts reach full charge the BMS stops all current flow. This causes the charger to flash yellow and show error code 013 which is battery is no longer accepting charge which is exactly what is happening. My only concern is what if any effect this will have on the charger. I can hear a relay clicking in and out as it continues to try to send a charge to the batts. Does anyone know if this will cause harm to the IC1200? I worry about leaving the charger plugged in overnight because the batts will be fully charged before I can get out there to unplug it in the morning. The only real issue I had with the installation was the physical size of the new batteries. They are much larger so they did not fit in the tray the way the old batteries did. I had to remove the trays and build a wooden ones and use ratchet straps to hold them in place. That will work for now, but I will need to figure out a better arrangement in the future. I am extremely pleased with how this all went and knowing I will get many more years of life out of the E1. I highly recommend this upgrade if you are considering it. The only unknown is will the batteries keep working without issue. They do have a 5 year mfg warranty, but since they come from China (as most things) who knows if they will be around then, but it wouldn't kill me to have to buy a replacement at some point at that price.

does sound like kind of an asshole don't he.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

my skull is thick enough i don't have to....

And that's just the first week! It gets worse..The overheating, the gasket failures. The brake issues.If you can't fix it yourself, It really is cheaper to pay $3K more for a HONDA .

Lol, like you need more rain in the swamp 🤣

@Alex Fantastic! You fixed the add conundrum. It was really awful. Thank you so much. The forum is useable now.

The engine is a 95% clone of YAMAHA Rhino but built with lesser quality parts and assembly..I Have replaced broken defective parts with YAMAHA Parts on my 500 Hisun engine. It has become acceptable SXS now. Mine broke on its first day in its first mile. Neither Hisun or Massimo would back warranty. 6 trips to shop all paid out of pocket..I discourage anyone from buying anything made by Hisun.☠

That's sort of a confusing answer because of the way hisun terminology works. The engine & the wet clutch & the high/low/reverse gears (which is what we traditionally term a "transmission") all share oil. The rear differential has its own oil, but it isn't a "transmission" except in hisuns terminology. They also use the term "final drive" or something like that in some literature.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

I've been looking for a cross to a filter from a known manufacturer since I bought this machine. Both from a cost standpoint, and a known quality standpoint. The factory filters are just plain black with no markings. Due to price point on these machines I would assume that the factory filter would be made as.cheap as possible I have not had any real luck finding a cross, so In doing my first oil change I decided to cut the factory filter and see what is inside. I don't have a fancy oil filter cutting set up, so I just clamped it in the vise and went to town with my portaband. Excuse the rough cuts and metal shavings. Looks like a good quality filter, plenty of pleats/surface area. Metal endcaps. Excuse the crushing, that's from the vise/strap wrench to remove it. Relief valve And a spring in the bottom of the can to keep the top silicone anti-drainback pressed in place. Overall looks like a surprisingly good quality filter for a no name. At least we can know that using the factory filters on these should be acceptable. I feel better about paying $10 for this filter at least knowing it's good quality.

Thanks but think I found the critter , the cam pressure relief spring had broken had to remove the head again to make sure nothing got crushed , but found everything installed new spring put back together , but made sure that the timing marks were where they were supposed to be , adjusted valve springs and it started right up, ran for a few seconds and I believe some garbage got into the fuel system , but thats for tomorrow problem solving !! ROFL thank's for sharing