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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

While I can fully understand Joe B's unhappy experience and his recommendation to go elsewhere, I believe that his unit is/was a HiSun. Those units have been shown to be very suspect, and Massimo was way undercapitalized to support the dealer network and their customers. On the other hand, my 2020 T-Boss 500-F (with the steel box w/dropdown sides) is a Linhai chassis. Except for a few design quibbles (front hood access, oil change mess, inadequate hitch mount and excessive reach with the steel box, overly bright display at night, etc), I have found that the Linhai version to be a solid, reliable, entry-level SXS. I've had the steering wheel loosen up (6 Phillips head screws) and the windscreen brackets needed realignment. I also replaced the 300 CCA U1 Lead acid battery that was OEM, with a 350 CCA AGM U1 battery. That solved the occasional cold start stall and kick back against the starter. The OEM flooded lead acid battery is just too small. Works OK in my lawnmower, though. 😒 I use mine for general banging around my land that has somewhat rough terrain, and I am also equipping as a fast-response vehicle to fight remote wildland fires. Bottom line is that I wouldn't ever consider buying a used 2019 or earlier Massimo or any other brand that uses the HiSun chassis of any vintage. 🏁

Make sure it's not in 4-wheel drive, it gets much stiffer to turn on pavement or solid ground. Also, make sure your toe in isn't way off.

Try playing with the adjustment. The 500/550's don't have the same shifter cable/lever issues as the 40's but the cable can stretch over time. If you're getting grinding and popping out of gear it could be worn clutch dogs too, which require some effort to replace as they're internal to the transmission. If you're having shift issues and grinding it's best to be proactive about adjusting because it does damage the dogs over time, and eventually will just pop out of gear at will once the dogs are rounded enough.

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Oh Joe.....ever since you bought your Massimo you've been suspicious 🤣🤣🤣

Same problem with mine. Ended up being starter clutch. Did mine in frame. Had to remove a few things but not too bad of job. Pulley puller is ideal. Got clutch on ebay $27. Look for : Starter Clutch component 23706 For Linhai 260 300 400 ATV UTV Scooter BigHorn

Hey Dave when they fixed mine they only changed the bearing or clutch. something else to watch for with these bikes is the timing. The tensioner seems to not work properly. I don’t have a permanent fix yet, but the I’ve got it down to about 1hr to do it now and I keep all the tools in the bike just in case it happens in the bush.

Really weird. Glad you are aware of this peculiarity.

I realize that many of you do not have diesel machines. For those that do, this is for you: Just wanted to post my experience this past week. Here in Texas, we had pretty good dip in temps. For 4 days it did not get above 25. At night, it was single digits or close to it. I always put Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the storage tank (30 gallon). And up until this tank I was using Power Service (white bottle) for anti-gel. Never had an issue. This tank, however, I switched to Stabil All season (anti gel). It is supposed to good down to -40. Zap. That is a big fat lie. I put in twice the amount called for in the instructions. Result was less than optimal. I drove the SxS 100 feet (to go get the mail) and it died. I looked at the fuel bowl and it was a cloudy, wax substance. So, the Stabil did not work. That said, I'm not sure that I ever tested the Power Service in the same manner. So I am not saying that one is better than the other. What are your experiences? Are these products inferior? What do you folks in the northern states / Canada use? Am I missing something? CC

I had a similar problem. With mine, which has under 30 miles and under 20 hours on it, It was hard to start, ran rough, and until it was warmed up, if I gave it gas I would hear a pop and it would stall. The plug was carbon fouled, as well as the oxygen sensor and the tailpipe was loaded with carbon buildup. Cleaned it all up and did the same thing with replacing the spark plug and the problem came back within an hour or two. Took it to my mechanic and after four days he said the gas tank had lots of water in it and that was the problem. He cleaned the tank, put fresh gas in it and so far, it's running like a champ. Hope this helps ...

The one I used and linked above is a generic chart. Unfortunately there is very little information on Hisun... and I guess Coleman machines... Maybe becuase Hisun is a knockoff of the Yamaha Rhino, at least the older Hisuns. For ours I try to get aftermarket Yamaha Rhino parts when I can as usually they are cheaper and more accessible. But I don't think it works that way for the new machines as they aren't really copies anymore... unless they are and I don't know. Luke

So after studying the schematic, I started looking for the 30A fuse that goes from the charger to the batteries. I found it mounted to one of the batteries. The fuse holder had actually melted. I replaced the fuse and holder and the charger started right up. I kept an eye on temperature of the new holder and the wires running to it. They get quite warm, but not enough to melt the new holder at this point. I am worried what made it so hot in the first place and am concerned it will happen again. We'll just have to wait and see.

So as an update to my UTV having starting problems, it went from three try's to get it started to not starting at all. Before approaching any valve adjustment, I decided to check the spark plug, as I was now smelling some flooding. At first, while I was trying to fit the right socket size to remove the plug, I noticed it started getting wet around the plug. Gas seemed to be leaking out around the plug. When I removed the plug, it turned way too easy, which was telling me it wasn't installed properly and may have been too loose. When removed, it showed signs of flooding, probably from trying to start it so many times. The plug also had carbon buildup and the gap was too small. (Note: the manual I have states in one spot that the gap should be 0.8mm, then elsewhere it states between 0.6-0.7mm. So which is it?) I installed a new plug setting the gap to 0.8mm and on the second try, it fired right up. I let it sit for a short period of time and the same thing, it took two try's but started right up every time thereafter. We shall see what happens today and at a later date, recheck the plug. I know that the gas that came with it had been a problem, as it was sold to me new, but I know it was used (long story). It is a 2019 and I just purchased it about 3 months ago. Tractor Supply stated they added some gas and fuel treatment to help with any water that may be in the tank. Although I added plenty of non-ethanol gas and when the tank was down to 3/4 I added more plus some Seafoam, but that's when things got worse. So now I'll probably let it sit and run to use up the gas so I can start with a good tank. Then I'll change the fuel filter and hopefully not have to go as far as a valve adjustment. We shall see and hopefully it was just bad gas causing carbon buildup. I will update as I go along.

Haven't been on any long rides yet, just 30 minute rides around here. Not a lot of areas close by but I have a 'sticker' so I can ride on county roads. The 'Stealer' took off the bead lock rims and put these rims on and squared the tires. The factory bead locks aren't that good and seems like the bolts around the rim strip out easily. I like these rims better and I don't go anywhere I need bead locks anyway. with a 1000cc engine this thing has plenty of spunk, top speed is 65 mph. This is a 2023 model and the earlier models had a problem with heat in and around the back of the cabin. The exhaust especially the header pipe has been redesigned and seems to help. I like it so far. Steve...........

Does anyone know the part number for the stator and flywheel on the 2015 intimidator 750 gas? It has a kohler Ech730-3036 engine.

There should be a rubber O-ring around the fuel pump. Between the fuel pump and tank. Put a little grease around the O-ring. That will help the ring turn to lock. Yes it should be a little hard to turn since you have to compress that O-ring. Once you get the ring started in the locking tabs. Get a brass hammer or solid rubber hammer. If needed you can use a brass punch against the ring. And tap with the brass or rubber hammer. Reason for rubber or brass is those material don't cause sparks. You don't want sparks around the fuel pump or fuel tank. Let us know how it goes for you. Send pics. Greg

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Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy. Locking gas door. Rear view mirror. Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin. Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view. Tailgate protector. Folding armrests. Overhead utility rack. Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too! Folding rear seats. Dust cover and seat protector. If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post. But know that everything requires some level of fabrication. The utility rack was all custom built. Cheers!

So here's the short of the long and I'd like to run this by others. I got a good deal, but I may have been scammed, depending on the facts behind the scene, as I will explain. I was looking at inexpensive UTVs with what I could afford and had 3 brands in mind. The only one that was available was the Coleman Outfitter UT400, which was sold at Tractor Supply. The internet showed they only had one left, so the next day I went down to take a look. When I got there the salesman told me that the model they had was just sold, but he would show it to me so I could see it. Then he came back and said he couldn't find it, as it may have already been picked up by the buyer, but he would talk to the manager to see what he could do. The manager confirmed the floor model was just sold, but he had one in the back they couldn't sell. He took me to see it and proceeded to tell me they couldn't sell it because a year ago, after they moved from one location from across the street to their new location, they lost the keys. It also needed a gas cap and a couple of the reflectors were missing. Since it was a 2021, he really wanted it out of the store, so he offered it to me for $6000. Now the internet price was $8000, and the tag on the UTV with the sku number said $9000. I told him I'd have to think it over, even though I was saving between $2000-$3000, I wanted to make sure I could get parts, since I also found out that Coleman had filed Chapter 11 back in February. I came back 4 days later and told him I would not purchase if unless I was able to drive it and the only way to do that without the keys was to hot wire it. He was okay with that, so I got it started and took it for a drive. There were a few bangs and clunks that went away, probably due to it sitting around and now knowing that the shifter problems exist, which may have been some of the noise. But all in all, it started right up and for the most part, ran good. I bought it, took it home, and it sat in the barn for almost a week while I was trying to locate parts. Seems that the more I learned about this particular model and it being a 2021, parts were not readily available. Now taking into consideration the manager stated this was a brand new UTV, here is where I started to scratch my head. Supposedly, the UTV sat there unused for about 18 months. The manager said he only started working there about 6 months ago. When I finally did some research and started learning a little bit about the UTV, I was able to check the actual hours and mileage. The dash showed me that there was just under 7 hours and 23 miles on that UTV. Then, when I went to install the new ignitions switch, since I couldn't get keys for the original switch, I had to swap out the connectors only to find out that the wiring to the original ignition switch had one of the wired cut and someone had soldered it back together. After I started to clean the dust and dirt accumulated on it for the past 18 months, I noticed the clear head light lenses were scratch inside and out and the head light compartment was loaded with dirt and debris. Under the hood was mud that had kicked up there and the windshield was also scratch up, both inside and out. Two bolts were missing off a piece on the exhaust system, which I know had fallen off on someone else's UTV, but the bolts vibrated off of his after about a year of use. And today I found out that there may be a wiring problem with a brake light, which by the way is the only light that didn't have a zip tie holding the rubber dust boot on the back of the brake light assembly, which tells me someone else may have tried to fix the problem. So with all that said, I did only pay $6000 for now to be know as a slightly used UTV, saving between $2000-$3000, and with that I am okay - BUT - Was I scammed by the manager at Tractor Supply or him only being there 6 months (if that is the truth), was he telling me only what he was told and he is innocent? So my question is (3 hours later), do I keep it, fix it, and feel good about what I paid for it and what I saved, or return it and do without, because I really can't afford to pay 10 or more thousand for another brand? I do need a UTV to be able to maintain my 12 aces and I'm now 70 years old, so I'm trying to make a good decision here, even though I am still not certain if I was scammed by Tractor Supply or this deal was done in all innocents and miscommunication with Tractor Supply employees. I'm open for any input and thank you in advance.

You probably have a bad ground in the rear. You may be able to add a jumper "ground" from the inside of the lamp assembly and see if that helps the dimming issue. If so, make a new permanent ground and that should take care of the issue. Good luck, Dan

Thanks for the info! Going to try that today.

No idea, but I welded mine closed. No issues so far.. machine is much quieter without a pencil size exhaust leak..

There's this thread, which I contributed to a few months ago: I replaced my Discovery batteries with four ReLion Insight 48V batteries, which have the same form factor as the old batteries. I went with them because of that, but mostly because each battery has a max continuous output of 100A, so the four of them combined can match the full 400A capability of the motor. Also their tech support was great and sent me the new charging profile and instructions so I could flash the existing onboard charger to change it over to their custom lithium battery charging profile. The fact that you can still see 400A with your original batteries is interesting, since I was never able to see that and was at the point of the UTV slowing down and throwing error codes when hauling uphill. The upgrade isn't cheap, so you may want to make sure you're at the point where you just can't squeeze out anything more from your old batteries. That said, the performance improvement is great. Four batteries is plenty of capacity for my use, but if you require maximum range (and don't mind the cost) you can actually parallel 8 of them and still save almost half the weight compared to the Discovery batteries.

COLEMAN UT 400 NO REVERSE WE FOUND THE CURE! In our case adjustment would make the UT 400 go into reverse but you would loose forward in the doing, very frustrating! However when removing the seat and the upper engine cover you can see the shift lever clearly and with the cable adjusted properly to engage forward and the ever so annoying ratchet sound of reverse gears we found if you apply slight pressure to the shift lever on the transmission it would engage! Turns out there is just simply not enough throw on the cable, So back up to the shift lever and noticed there is a stop next to the detent on the lever that if slightly more gap would allow just a bit more throw. So here is the cure, Remove the nut (10MM) on the cable post, remove the C clip from the pivot post, remove the bezel ring at the shift lever by bending straight the tabs and remove the shift lever. I used a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel and removed about 1/2 of the stop on the inside edge next to where the detent ball will sit on both the reverse and forward sides of the lever (cuz lets just be certain) After reassembly it was noted that simply holding the shift lever into the gear you want and ever so gently tapping the throttle the transmission selects both forward and reverse every time without fail. You see the cable is only as long as it is and adjusting it will only make it go one direction further, but by removing a bit of metal it allows the whole thing to travel just enough to make the difference. I'm not going to say this is the end all be all but it sure worked for us and maybe with a bit of luck will for you as well.

Hi Tyson, The rear cv axle for 650 Commando is still available like yesterday It is in South Carolina now and if you buy, it will be sent by UPS. So, if you buy earlier, you get it earlier, no need long time waiting. Would you please send me email at [email protected] for further discussing? Thanks Casey/ Leaf Asia 2023-05-29

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me. I don't know if it's a cable or levers that control the transmission, but definitely something is out of adjustment.

Welcome to the wonderful world of disappointed HISUN engine owners.. We feel your pain.. ........so they told you, you cant use your OFF ROAD FOUR WHEEL DRIVE UTV in muddy conditions eh? Should only drive on paved streets?

Well I finally got back to work on my junk hisun Challenger 750 UTV. I purchased what I thought and asked for a fuel injected 660 Yamaha motor out of a rhino or grizzly. The salvage place said they had one and would have it rebuilt for me. (the only way they sell their motors) The problem is hisun cloned the 660 Yamaha increased the bore & stroke to 102mm x 90mm from 100mm x 84mm. Identical motors, but the Yamaha was never fuel injected I found out when I went to install it. The place I purchased the motor said it was, I requested that it be a fuel injected motor and again the salesman had said it was. The 660 Yamaha was produced from '02-'08 but only with a carburetor. So no crank position sensor for fuel injection to work. So now I've tore apart the hisun junk motor and found that the cam/timing chain had come off the gears. It either stretched or the tensioner failed. The piston hit both exhaust valves and bent them. Dropped the head of at the machine shop yesterday for new valves and clean it up having them check the three intake valves plus all the spring pressures. The replacement vales and springs will be Yamaha as needed. The cam/timing and tensioner will be replaced with Yamaha parts as well. The piston and bore looks good with only two little nicks where valves hit. The Motorcycle Doctor in Florida is a hisun junk dealer and has parts for sale on eBay or direct at 573-346-6867 or motorcycledoctor.com. I would suggest taking the time and use Yamaha parts when you can. As you can see from pictures below the hisun has a different intake port compared to the Yamaha 660. That's what got me started into checking out the 660 motor not being fuel injected. I get the head back in a 1.5 weeks, timing chain and tensioner is ordered, then I'll put it all back together and do another post. Also if anyone needs a rebuilt Yamaha 660 for a rhino or grizzly '02-'08 let me know $2,750.00 shipping included.

after all the complaints on this forum about the other brands of utv's, i will stick with my mule...........not the fastest, not the most powerful, but it hauls stuff around the house and plows snow just fine..........

The real problem, as I see it, is that the codes given are consistent with an engine that's running poorly. So imho, if it's not running with a substantial miss, then something else is going on. Like a possible failure of the CPU. Manufacturers are typically reluctant to give away parts without a reliable, trusted diagnosis of failure, such as that provided by an authorized service center. And a new CPU could be quite expensive, with no guarantee that'll cure the problem. Throwing parts at it is never a good plan anyway. Fixing it yourself, could be a long, expensive, frustrating endeavor. Complete with long down times, and fairly involved diagnostic procedures. If it were me, I'd try to make it Lowe's problem. By any means necessary, including a return.

You do realize that virtually every item manufactured in significant quantity is manufactured in China right? And you do realize that Yamaha, Honda, Polaris, Massimo, etc. don't own any of the manufacturing companies in China because China is a communist country so the government essentially owns every business right? So all of these vendors that sell in the US are distributors. They don't make the parts, they may, like Massimo assemble components and subassemblies into finished vehicles in the US, right? You understand that? Now let's look at why this is the case. what do you think the reason is? I'll give it to you. It's not because people don't want to make things in the US, most everyone would prefer that. It's because it more or less IMPOSSIBLE to manufacture anything significant in the USA and not because of labor cost. Labor cost have little impact because most major manufacturing is highly automated, using little human labor. No, the reason is US government regulations and restrictions (and their friends in the legal business) make it cost and legally prohibitive to make metal, plastic, glass, etc. all the basic components of any complex device. No company can survive trying to do major manufacturing in the USA and they can't open a plant in China (which has no labor laws, no EPA, no OSHA, etc. ) because everything in China is government owned. So the only option is partnering with a Chinese company, and so every major US product vendor does that. Honda, Yamaha, Polaris, etc. all the basic parts that need to be made in large quantity are made in China. If you don't like this, then you need to think hard about how you vote and pressure politicians to be more US friendly and less China friendly. That's the real problem. It's not an excuse for Massimo's lack of attention to customers and quality control. They could do better, but these problems are not exclusive to Massimo and it's a symptom of poor US government and huge over-reach in regulations and favors to special interest and outside influences. If the US government and corrupt politicians would clean up their act, companies with poor products and poor customer services couldn't survive, As it currently stands, high quality and good customer service is too expensive and too much legal and regulatory lability to compete in the USA. Sitting back an blaming companies struggling to survive won't fix it and the current US administration is tacking on more and more odious regulations which have crippled the supply chain and manufacturing, so hang on to your wallet, its going to get worse.

Against the brute it launch faster than my utv but around 65kph i close the gap and pass in front at around 100kph Against the renegade i stay behind but not by so much distances And against the Polaris on 27" tire it was neck and neck whit my utv until we Reach 30kph and leave it in the dust In deep mud my utv on OEM 25" tire have beated all ecxept the renegade but its okay i was pulled only one time for the entire day One of the 4 brute force got big electrical issue and 2 brake an axle in the marsh For a chinese product all guys as been quite impressed on the overall performance and reliability of it for the price