Dan B

Your symptoms sure sounds like the idle circuit in the carb is plugged or otherwise restricted. The reason it runs a little better with the choke and/or partial throttle it because that's bypassing the idle circuit and you're running on the high speed circuit. I would also check the float level. That can cause excessive fuel (rich condition) that can cause sooting of the plugs and flooding of the engine. Both conditions can cause hard starting and rough running engines. Lesson I learned in high school auto shop long, long time ago before fuel injection was discovered.

I don't see how you can swap the heads to get more power. The part numbers are not the same. Crankshaft part numbers are not the same, either. 13101-004-0000-KIT Piston Kit, HS UTV 400/500 13101-007-0000-KIT Piston Kit, HS UTV 700

Do be offended if I state something you already know. I'm just covering all bases. This is how I bleed my brakes on my van and car. My Renegade has three master cylinders (one for the clutch and two for the brakes - I believe that's how they're configured). If you're doing it solo, 1. Place a small glass jar at the wheel furthest from the master cylinders (usually the right rear). and fill the jar with about 1" brake fluid 2. Connect a hose from the bleeder valve to the jar. Make sure the end of the hose is submerged and fits snugly over the bleeder valve. This will be your airlock. 3. Fill the master cylinders with brake fluid. 4. Open the bleeder valve at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear) 5. Pump the brake pedal slowly about 3 times. Important: Make sure the hoses stay submerged in brake fluid at each wheel and you don't let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop to the point of pumping air into the brake lines. You may find you can pump it more times before you have to refill the master cylinders. 6. Refill the master cylinders and/or the jar as needed. 7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until you feel you've bled all the air out of that line. If you have a helper, they can watch for air bubbles in the jar to cease. 8. Close the bleeder valve at that wheel. 7. Move to the next wheel (left rear) and repeat steps 3-7. Then repeat for the right front, then the left front. There are several websites that tell you how to bleed brakes. I would suggest you take a look at them for pointers. They can be of help. You may have to bleed the master cylinders before you do the wheels.

Some of the questions did not have choices that fit my situation. Example: Some mods are done to enhance utility, not safety, performance or appearance.

When I was stationed in Korea, some of their taxi cabs made clunking noises during a turn. Failing CV joints will do that. My VW bus did the same - failing CV joint. At least check them before tearing down the diff.

I would use some sort of torque lube (not motor oil). Resistance to torque in the threaded area can affect the amount of torque that is actually used to hold the parts together. You want all of that resistance applied to the actual torque of the joint and none being used to overcome the resistance of the threaded area. It's similar to tightening a new bolt vs an old rusty bolt. Some of the torque is used to overcome the rusty bolt threads. Whether ARP is better than anything else would have to be based upon what you think of a product's claim. You'll find arguments that using a torque lube will increase the preload stresses when tightening the bolts to spec. I don't see how that can happen unless they've factored in the effects of a dry and clean torqued bolt vs a wet (lubed) torqued bolt into their specs.

I have a 2014 Joyner Renegade with the Chery 1100cc engine. It appears that the oil pump is driven directly from the crankshaft. I'm going to try a heavier weight oil (40 or 50) to see if that improves my idle oil pressure (it's at 10 psi, bare minimum).

What machine are you working on. I'm wondering if my low oil pressure at idle has excessive oil pump clearances. (Joyner Renegade 1100cc) .14mm is 0.005512"

I've found five different address locations around Yuma, AZ for this company reported on Yelp, Groupon and BBB websites. They move around a lot. YP yellow pages shows three different addresses all with the same phone number. I don't think they are so busy to need three simultaneous locations in a small city. One of the five addresses is an empty farm field. I'm not sure, but it appears now that operations is being conducted from a private residence south of the Yuma airport (BBB reported address). They don't get very many good reviews. Could be the supply chain delay from China, could be something else.

That connector may be unused. Manufacturers will make one wire harness for several versions of their side x side, ATV, car, van or truck. It's cheaper to maintain one supply chain (in your case, the wire harness) for all their vehicles of that model than it is to maintain several supply chains, one for each version of that model. Example: My van has a dead end wire harness under the passenger seat in case a buyer wants the option of an electrically adjustable seat for the passenger. If I learn of something about that connector, I'll respond again. I presume everything (gauges, lights, 4WD select, etc) are all working. If you are not the original owner, is there any evidence that something was removed that this connected to? Aug 31, 2018. I went digging into my Renegade SxS today and I found that I have that exact same connector, disconnected, not used.

I considered 2up ATVs but they are rare in my area. I wanted to be able to carry a passenger. I'm overall satisfied with my R2. I live in AZ and it's both OHV and street legal. I just bought a spark arrestor to satisfy the forest service requirements. I like the styling and the larger engine. The 800cc engine is the same one used in the John Deere 825i and many other UTVs. I think Kawasaki is using it on one of their UTVs. If the UTV has a 3-cyl 800cc engine, it's most likely the Chery engine. I also like the clutch/transmission vs the CVT and the ability to carry more gear than an ATV. It's a Hummer wannabe. There is no perfect machine. Mine has some very minor issues but they are in no way a show stopper. I've seen $20k machines with broken axles, burned belts (CVT transmission, etc). I've wondered why Joyner used the 800cc in their earlier R2/R4. I told a local dealer that if they put the 1100cc engine in the Renegade, I'd buy one. They did, so I did - a used one. I don't think they are using the 800 cc in the R2/R4 UTV from 2014 and later. It's a heavy and wide (60" class) machine; about 1700 lbs for the R2, about 2010 lbs for the R4. I had to cut two feet off the rear end of the sidewall on my 5x10 trailer to get it on. The R4 would need a longer trailer. The rear axle is about 63" wide, the front is about 56" wide. I wouldn't call it a rocket ship. I've never had my engine run over 5000 rpms. In 5th gear, I get 10 mph per 1000 rpms (5,000 rpms at 50 mph). I rarely have to drive that fast. The only thing that concerns me is the low oil pressure at idle when the engine has warmed up. A guides says you should have 10 psi/1000 rpms. Mine is at 10 psi at idle (I prefer 20 psi at idle). I'm going to put in 50 weight oil at my next oil change. The heat of the desert southwest where I live thins out lighter weight oil. I hope that will bring up my idle oil pressure. The tranny is a 5-speed w/reverse. 1st gear is a granny gear. I don't use 1st gear unless I have to tow something or go up a steep incline. If you're moving to a gated community, you may find that they have the legal authority to ban ATVs and enforce their own traffic laws (believe it or not). They are their own traffic enforcement. There was a man who was cited by the HOA for driving 2 mph over the posted limit. Couldn't have been cited if it wasn't a gated community.

In 2014, they started putting the 1100cc engine in the Renegades (I have one). I don't know if they dropped the 800cc from the Renegade line or not. But it's now almost the same drive train as the Trooper (at least the engine and transmission).

Hard to troubleshoot from a distance. It could be the fuel pump on its way to the graveyard. I had a similar problem with my car. Can't rule out an electrical problem (broken wire, faulty ground or loose/dirty connector) that controls the fuel pump, fuel injectors or the ignition system. You'll be looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack. Good luck. Before replacing the fuel pump, try installing a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have sufficient fuel pressure when the problem occurs. Or you can connect a hose to the outlet and route to a bucket to see if you're even getting fuel when the problem occurs. If you're not getting fuel, find out why (faulty fuel pump or not getting 12v to run the pump). Randomly replacing parts to fix a problem can get frustrating and expensive.

Besides the price, I'm wondering how heavy that ride will be. Their site says 2300-4400 lbs depending upon [battery?] options. I don't think any owner will be going airborne with this ride. I would presume the basic charging package comes with it, but maybe not. But if you want a 3 hr charging package, it's extra, it's a genset. It's got a 14" ground clearance (that's good).

Here are some specs. Don't know how current they are: http://www.amentindustrial.com/pages/Carts_Pug_WildernessII_Specs_W570A.html

Certainly. I should have included that. Mine does.

Deep cycle batteries are designed for low current draw over long period of time such as trolling motors, winches, solar power supplies and golf carts. Car engine starting batteries are designed for high current draw over short duration. I don't know how your deep cycle battery will perform. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates to provide more current over longer periods of time. Car starting batteries have thinner plates. Exposes the plates to more electrolyte so as to provide the high current demands. I imagine if you oversize your deep cycle battery, it will probably work as long as a starting battery would (but cost more). At least your deep cycle battery might power your winch longer before it can't start your engine.

Besides Kawasaki and John Deere, there are several other UTV makers (mostly Chinese) using the Chery line of engines. But Kawasaki, being an Japanese brand, using the Chery engine is a surprise.

I live in the desert southwest where temperatures go above 115 a few days a year. On my next oil change, I'm going to try 10w or 20w-50. My Renegade oil pressure at idle is barely 10psi (new sending unit). I prefer 20psi at idle. I'm hoping that will improve my oil pressure at idle. Edited: The 2016 owner's manual for the Renegade (it has the same 1100cc engine as the Trooper) say to use 10W30-50 oil.

I presume your fuel pump doesn't even operate (make noise at least). Depending upon the year model of your Renegade, there's a relay or solid state switch that can prevent your fuel pump from operating. Its location also depends upon your year model.

You've replace all the components that can cause loss of spark. Is the gap between the pickup coil and the pulse rotor close? Gap shouldn't be much more than the thickness of a business card. I don't know if it is adjustable on your machine. Check your ground connections. Do you have battery voltages where they should be with the ignition switch on? You may have to find a Hisun dealer. I can only find general diagrams for CDI systems, nothing specific to your machine.

I needed the same info for my SxS. I did find the numbers from a few sites but they were all different. But one thing in common was that the weights were split with about 35%-40% on the front axle and about 60%-65% on the rear axle. It's a rear engine SxS. That should give you somewhat of a guide.

This may or may not be of any use. My 2014 Renegade has the 1100cc engine (same as the trooper). Mine would start and idle just fine. Then one day it wouldn't. It would crank over, fire, then immediately shut down. I found my battery to be a little below 12vdc. I put a battery maintainer on it (basically a 1 amp battery charger to maintain the charge on the battery). SLA batteries have a habit of discharging over time. Mine starts and runs fine. Presuming your charging system is working, measure the battery voltage with the engine off (should be 12.6vdc). You can see if a jump start will allow it to run and idle.

Where did you get your spark arrestor? I need one and I need to be assured that it will fit my Renegade 1100cc exhaust system. It should be similar to the Trooper system.