Dan B

I went to Amazon and searched for "VDO Oil Pressure Sending Unit". This one is used for gauges that displays pressures from 0-150psi. I don't have a parts manual so I can't compare them. Amazon does list one from China but it's not available and they don't know if or when it will become available again. After further searching, I found others on Amazon for around $20. It's for a diesel generator but the specs and brand are the same as for the one I showed you. They are VDO brands but don't carry the VDO part numbers.

The first image is for CARS that use the Chery engine. They are wired for the warning light only. Amazon has a VDO 360 025 Oil Pressure Sending has a range of 0-150 psi. If your gauge goes from 0-150 psi, this is the one that should work. It will operate the analog gauge and warning light.

Sounds like the previous owner did so many mods that the ECU doesn't know what's going on. I would suggest you undo all those mods and try get your ride back to factory configuration. The hardest thing to fix is other people's problems because we just don't know what all they did to the machine. Seems like you've also got some unknown, unfounded corroded elecrical connections.

Amazon has a 40 amp alternator for your mule for $100. I'm sure there are other sources for a larger alternator and maybe for a lower price. That stock alternator is barely big enough to run the headlights and other lighting and charge the battery. Make sure you install a battery isolator so that if one battery goes down, the other battery is isolated and won't discharge.

More benefit would be gained by adding an additional radiator and cooling fan. That would give the hot water more time exposure to the cooling effects of the additional radiator. Location of the radiator should be near the same level as the stock radiator. I don't think the engine driven water pump has enough power to raise the water too high (it's more like a transfer pump, not a pressure pump). In that case, an additional, electric water pump might be beneficial if it can pump HOT water and survive. As you've found out, overheating is generally caused by another problem other than design issues.

This is the one I actually got. Functionally the same, cosmetically different. https://www.amazon.com/PREMIUM-SPARK-ARRESTOR-Clamp-Stainless/dp/B01LDKSMB4/ref=sr_1_104?dchild=1&keywords=vw+spark+arrestor&qid=1597466330&sr=8-104

I bought my spark arrestor on Amazon. It does interfer with the cargo box tilting - box hits the spark arrestor.

I found mine on Amazon.com. About $50 USD. Mine is USFS approved and is really for a VW up tro 1700cc. Works well with my 1100cc engine. I posted a picture with comments relating to what I had to do to make it fit. Not difficult to do.

I looked up towing capacities of ATVs and UTVs. Most ATVs average 1200 lbs. UTVs average about 1600 lbs and some are maxed out at 2000lbs or less. A very few to to 2300 lbs. Towing capacities are rated on flat, hard surfaces and include the weight of the trailer and cargo. Water weighs 8.33 lbs per gallon. You can use that figure to determine how much water you an carry. The heavier the towing vehcile, the heavier the towing capacity becomes. Also consider that a heavy load can put a lot of stress on the drive belt. My ride can tow 2000 lbs. Still not large enought for what you need. My ride also has a limit as to how long out the back the tow hitch can extend (limited to 3"). If I go out too far, physics relating to leverage can damage my frame. There's a lot to consder when towing a loaded trailer. You may find that a 4-wheel trailer with axles in front and rear to support 100% of the load without any tongue weight MIGHT work better provided your brakes can handle the stopping requirements. I don't know if electric brakes can be adapted to a light trailer and the ATV/UTV electrical system. Good luck on any solution to have.

Get yourself a 2000 watt inverter generaor (for quietest operation) and 100+ amp 12vdc power supply. Bolt the generator to the back. Then go for a ride. Alternators for UTVs and ATVs are barely large enough to run the lights, computer, fuel pump and ignition system (about 400 watts).

Short answer to your question about possible issues: Yes. Impossible to troubleshoot from a distance. I would look at everything from the transmission output shaft to the wheel bearings.

Your posting is about 6 yrs old. Hope you are still around. I'm interested in purchasing brake pads for a 2014 Joyner Renegade 1100cc. All four wheels. Could you please provide a price to include shipping to the USA? Also, a website in the USA to order from, if you have one.

The brake pads on my Renegade seem to be quite thin, less than 1800 miles. Does anyone know what the thickness of new brake pad friction material is. It will give me an idea as to how much brake pad life I might have left. A supplier or suitable substitues would also be helpful in case I need to get new ones. Thanks in advance.

That's almost impossible. It may be made in America from parts obtained on the world market (China mostly). John Deere is an American company. Their Gator engine is Chinese. Japan's Kawasaki uses a Chinese engine in one of their models. Wal-Mart should be renamed "China-Mart".

I have Nationwide, too.

Good job! I had trouble with the rear U-nuts,too. I just forced the fit. I think their precision in welding the ears misses the point where they should be attached.

I have had some luck with calling Jake Feng at this number: 480-882-9612. I used it when I needed to buy two wheels for my ride. I think his personal cell ph number; I don't know if it is still a working number. Another number may or may not be good: 602-253-0283. He's been out of his Riverside location for a couple of years+ so that address isn't good. The address I went to last year was 2415 S 18 Pl; Phoenix, AZ. There is another address at PBO Auto Sales 3842 E Roeser Rd in Phoenix. They've seem to change from Joyner to Bennche rides. I went there about 8 years ago and test drove an 800cc Renegade. I decided to wait until they put the 1100cc engine in them. I don't know what Joyner-USA financial condition is. They had to move from the Riverside address because the rent was too expensive (so I was told by an unofficial source). The Arizona Corporation Commission shows that the S 18 Pl address is their active business location as of Aug 2019; nothing at the E Roeser address.

And you have a great ride!

AZ is more lenient for registering rides for street legal use. Certainly can. My ride is. Even though the safety stuff is required, they didn't inspect my machine to see if I did have them (I do). No emissions test required (Maricopa Co). Can register for up to 5 years. Get an OHV tag also if you plan on trail riding. I have libility insurance with Nationwide. I opted for liability only since I don't ride very often. The problem with insurance companies and even state DMVs is they can't understand that a OHV / ATV are closer to automobiles than motorbikes. And UTVs are not ATVs. As a contrast, NY requires all UTVs and ATVs to be registered even though you will use it exclusively on your own property and they cannot be registered as stree legal.

As I recall, the fuel pump pressure on that engine needs to be about 45-50 psi. As for parts, Joyner sometimes uses parts from other Joyner machines. For example, the ball joint on my Renegade has the same part number that's used on an S650 (don't know if it's a Sand Spider or Sand Viper). If it were a Renegade part, it would have an R800, R1100 prefix. That engine is used in the pre 2014 Joyner Renegades, John Deere 825i Gator and several "off-brand" UTVs. So, you may find equivalent parts from other parts catalogs. Maybe an externally mounted pump (would take some engineering work) if the orginal pump is too expensive. From the parts manual for a 2006 Sand Viper it appears that that machine uses something similar to a king pin with raidial bearings instead of ball joints. Joyner-USA.com website has some good manuals. Don't bother to email through the website though. I never receive an email response.

Try to remove the skid plate the same way I did and replace the nuts with U-nuts. Mark the location of the drain hole before removing, of course. Drilled holes in my case seem to migrate from where I drilled them to stay. When I remove my skid plate for my next oil change, I'm going to drill a BIG hole so that it can't migrate too far. (:<))

I have the the same problem with my bash/skid plate. I think they installed the skid plate, then installed the engine. They used nuts and bolts to install the skid plate. I could loosen the bolts but then the nuts started to turn = couldn't remove the skid plate under normal procedures. What I did is loosened the bolts, then inserted a thin pry bar between the skid plate and the chassis to bind the nut so that is couldn't turn. I was able to remove all the bolts. I replaced the nuts with metric U-nuts. They mount on ears attached to the chassis. The U-nuts won't turn. As for accessing the drain plug, I'm going to drill a large hole so as to access the drain plug. Roll cages need diagonal supports. There are other rides that have the same issue. I can't speak of the Trooper, but my oil filter is easily accessible via raising the bed. Your Trooper and my Renegade have the same engine now (as of 2014). I have a concern about oil pressure at idle. It's barely the limit of 10 psi at 1,000 RPM. The common standard is 10 psi per 1,000 RPM. I use 50 weigtht oil and that helps the idle oil pressure. Above idle the oil pressure is fine. I agree with the racing harness. Can't easily access the storage compartment under the passenger seat. Buckles too wide. I bought my ride used off Craigslist. The previous owner took out the 5-point harness and installed lap belts, too, I reinstalled the harness and haven't had problems with them coming loose at the attach points or the buckle, not yet. Working on the wiring is nearly impossible if I want to add electrical accessories. My ride has an OBDII connector but is isn't a standard protocol. My OBDII testers can't communicate with my machine. I like my ride. I don't have $20k, $30k, $40k for a fancy ride. It's more of a utility/farm vehicle and not so much a sport vehicle. It's just with Joyner, you may have to be your own mechanic as I've learned. As with most advertising for almost anything, they put flowery words promoting the advantages of their products and not mention any negatives.

Difficult to troubloeshoot from a distance. The problem now is even if you found someone knowledgeable on your machine, the wiring mods the previous owner did will make it difficult to troubleshoot. And off-brand rides mean we have to be our own mechanics. Local support is rare. Sounds like the person you bought your ride from tried to bypasss the problem areas instead of fixing them. Has this ride been in deep water? Corrosion usually occurs at the connectors. Go through the whole machine and try to look for corrosion at the connectgors. Check the brake light switch on the brake pedal to see if it is out of adjustment or a broken wire. The winch control switch just pops out of the dash with a small flat blade screwdriver. See if the connector came undone. Also check the winch control relay. I'll presume the winch motor is okay. You might not be able to get a new fuse module, but I would try to clean the fuse connector as best as I could. I think that's where most of your issues will be. The brake light and horn should be on different fuses. I don't know where you got your wiring diagram, but Joyner-USA.com has manuals for your machine. I saw a post where the first 50 Troopers had a different signal flasher than the following units. I don't know if there were any mid-year changes that would make troubleshooting your machine difficult. http://joyner-usa.com/ may have the manuals you could use (free to download - pdf format)

Must have been an internet problem. It's up today.