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Thanks for the info! Good to know about the lower heat generated during discharge...

Not my machine T boss 800 Massimo, < 300 hours will not shift at transmission, cable from selector knob is okay, cannot get it to shift at the transmission. Is there a safety one of the safeties I'm not holding in, I've tried the brake is something weird going on or is it Transmission problems.

Hisuns seem to be a noisy machine. At least my SxS is, as there are zero sound deadening mats anywhere. Every flat surface serves to transmit engine roar and vibration. Their engines seem to have heavy vibration and that transfers into the frame and then body components. On my 550 UTV, the engine half sticks out behind the cab, and it is difficult to mitigate noise entering the cab. Just a thought here, this won't help with external noise, but you might consider sound deadening under the cab. Kilmat is one brand of self adhesive sound deadener that might help somewhat with noise inside the cab.

Should generally be fine, although I'm guessing you saw that the minimum operating temperature is -4F. I've found that the batteries don't heat up during discharge as much as you might think, which is normally a good thing unless you're at -10F! Guessing that isn't the norm though, so maybe you could get away with just plowing a little later in the day when it's really cold. If you really wanted to be safe, you could get a simple heating mat run off the 12V side and put that on top, but I wouldn't worry about that until you come across those conditions (snowing and extreme cold at the same time). I also see that the max continuous output is 80A. Pushing a plow can be heavy work, so definitely want at least the four batteries you're planning. Max output of the UTV motor is 400A. Others on this thread have been fine with lower total outputs of their batteries, probably because the times they need the highest output fit within the time-limited specs (e.g. XXXA for 30sec.), but if you can afford it, more is better. I used four because my batteries have a 100A continuous output rating, but they were also quite expensive at the time (pretty much the only viable GC2 option back then really). Even then I would have put in more if they had been cheaper since that also increases the total capacity. I've still never gone below 70%, but again, more is better! My opinion, for what it's worth, is get at least five, especially for the price those batteries are right now.

I'm planning to get the LiTime batteries which have the temperature protection (https://www.litime.com/products/48v-30ah-lithium-golf-cart-battery-gc2?variant=45688298569948). It's not a heater, just a charge/discharge safety cutoff. Just want to avoid a dead atv in the middle of my driveway with a mound of snow in front of it! I'm not even close to N Canada, but at times it can get down to -10f or so.

Best of luck! There are a lot more options now than when I did mine 3 years ago, and of course they've also come down a lot in price. 1. Didn't have any issues with disconnecting, but since lead acid batteries are always "on" try not to short circuit anything. The motor controller won't be on, so it's pretty safe and each Discover battery is only 6 volts anyway. Regarding connecting, the nice thing about the modern LiFePO4 batteries is that they have a smart BMS and you can actually turn them off. They'll come that way anyhow. So no danger of current flow until you specifically turn them on. 2. Depends on your setup. Some use a busbar connected to each battery, while I used the standard one battery connected to the next like the manufacturer suggested. For that standard one-to-the-next connection, if you're going to use a different charger then I'd still connect the charging cables to the end of the line same as the motor controller. I used the existing onboard charger and changed the profile. The Delta-Q is still a good charger and of course the charging current flows back through the motor controller anyway. 3. If you're really worried there are specific low-temperature LiFePO4 batteries, but all of them are generally just fine discharging even well below freezing (unless you're someplace really crazy like northern Canada, in which case you should check the battery's specifications.) It's charging where you have to be careful about being above freezing. So as long as you charge in the garage and you're sure the batteries aren't cold-soaked below freezing from being outdoors, you're fine. Even then, a reputable battery with a good BMS will prevent trying to charge below freezing anyway. I finally installed a plow this year and haven't had a chance to really use it, but that's how I'm set up as well.

Yes, I'm planning to use the 48v LiTime charger and possibly modding the "fuel port" into a charging port. Are you planning to buy new cables, or re-use the OEM ones? I had read that black should be disconnected first, and connected last, but not sure about overall order for the whole job. IE, disconnect the motor controller from battery bank first, or disconnect the batteries from each other first...etc. I don't have insulated tools, but am planning to use electric tape on the handles of any tools i use as well as wearing gloves. Any other safety precautions I need to be aware of?

I have not started my conversion yet, am eyeing the price fluctuations on 4 LiTime batteries on Amazon. But to answer one of your questions, it's usually best to save the black/neg connections for last since the current runs downstream from black/neg. Good question about the charging cables connections...? So you're using a new charger and not converting the Hisun factory one?

I replaced the stator on our Bennche 500 because it was not charging. It ran as long as you kept the battery charged. I replaced the stator now it’s not firing. The only problem I found was a wire in the new stator for the crank position sensor was in the wrong place in the plug. I switched it around but still no fire. Putting a meter on those wires and cranking the motor showed no voltage from the crank position sensor. Something I did or a bad “new “ part? Thanks for any ideas.

Call tracker customer service with your VIN. I have reached out to them in the past and found them to be helpful. It’s my understanding the the Artic Cat Prowler has the same engine and many other parts are interchangeable as well.

Radiator fan on 2018 textron havoc won’t come on

I have some great news for you. Manual and electric wipers are specifically designed to install on to glass windshields, but also hard-coated poly which you have got. I sell both but are currently out of stock. There are plenty of other sellers that will have these in stock. Drilling a hole in your polycarbonate windshield is super easy. Google "KEMI MOTO 15” universal Windshield Wiper Kit" for my recommendation. Thanks, Mike. Pacific Eagle Powersports.

I have a 2020 tracker 800 SX that has been at High Country Boats in Helena Montana over seven months supposedly waiting for a new water pump. I cannot believe it is taking this long to get the part and get it repaired. Is there anyone out there that can direct me to a complaint center so I can call them and find out what’s going on?

Thanks to all who have posted their experiences--it's great to hear all the success stories. I'm about to attempt my own install of 4 Litime 48v batteries. However, not being an electrician I am a bit concerned that I don't mess something up. I have a few questions: 1. Are there any specifics about safety when disconnecting/connecting batteries? Any specific order to do it in or precautions to take? Any and all info in this area is greatly appreciated! 2. For those of you who are using the 4x48v parallel setup, did you connect the charging cables to the same lugs as the motor controller? 3. One of the primary uses of my E1 is snow plowing. My E1 is always parked in a heated garage, so am I correct in thinking the battery charge/discharge will be ok in winter temps? I figure the batteries will start warm and under discharge will heat up, and for charging it will be inside the garage. Any of you have any issues doing it this way?

Hi all, i have a 2021 gc1k with the tbg eng, and i am needing frt cv axles, on a review of a oem intimidator axle on ebay the buyer stated that they were exactly the same as a 08-12 rzr 800? Has anyone else ran into thiz? When i look at the 2 side by side the only diff i see is the inner joint of the oem axle looks exactly like the outer joint,but the rzr axle inner joint has the slide deep cup?

I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 and attached the PDF of the Hisun service manual for the 550cc and 750cc models (includes Coleman and other "brand" names using the same basic unit). But these are not exactly the best info. You have to look really hard through about 450 pages to find specifics about the machines, and it many cases specifics are just not there, you have to figure it out yourself. Maybe others have similar manuals for the other various Hisun made UTVs/ATVs. COLEMAN 550cc & 750cc Utility Service Manual.pdf

Kinda wonder if OP's jumper is powering the start and spark circuits but missing something else required to run. Maybe the ECM ? Not a big fan of using jumpers, they seem to create or mask problems instead of helping them. Better to get new parts to solve the problem that needed a jumper in the first place, and install them as designed.

If there isn't enough wire left in the connector to solder it to the red wire end, you might try -carefully- using a Dremel tool or similar to trim back the plastic connector housing around the red wire, just enough to be able to solder it back onto the wire itself. That's what I would do since there seems to be little info available about the injector connector itself. You may have to buy the entire wiring loom with the injector connector included. Not sure this pic is your particular model or part number for the EFI Cable, but $120 bucks is pretty stiff price to pay for a chewed wire!!

Been six months now? Still in the shop disassembled? What parts are needed but not available? Maybe time to start looking for the needed parts on the used market. Post what your dealer needs on this site, maybe someone has them or can offer some help. If this machine is a total loss, maybe get it back and start parting it out to recoup something out of your cost.

Transmission vent leaks oil out of it after using

and they were concerns of ours as well, so all of our riding events were "slow ride" events, and we tried to keep the riders to a limited speed. Most of our property is flat and the county let us use the paved bike trail which is flat as well. We did not require nudity although most were as naked as they could get.

If you have fuel and spark, it's either timing or something else going on like no compression. What type of ride do you have here?

Greetings to the forum participants, my Kubota RTV 400 has stopped starting. More precisely, it works intermittently. Please advise what could be the cause.

Cranks after installing a jumper wire to ignition switch to get power but will not start Have spark and fuel pump runs

Have same issue but I have no power to ignition switch Have to run a jump wire Have spark and fuel still won't start Have the hyson motor